You've probably heard of diver's watches, or field watches, but do you know what defines a tactical watch?
We often refer to generic watch categories in this magazine, for example Diver, Pilot or Racing. These collections all have clear design parameters based on professional requirements and are easily recognised. Recently another category has popped up in our writing, fuelled by the availability of highly stylised models from Marathon, BOLDR and the Geckota Phalanx. This descriptor is TACTICAL.
The word is technically a specialist equipment term, however now it is much banded around, often without merit. According to the Cambridge Dictionary:
Tactical – adjective.
Definition: Relating to tactics; done in order to get a particular (military) result; tactical military operations or weapons used to achieve specific goals.

The Marathon Automatic Diver's Watch 41mm - Image Credit: WatchGecko Online Magazine
So, what makes a true tactical watch, and can a normal watch be transformed to give a pseudo-tactical look?
Professional tactical watches are impressive machines. They are robust, water resistant and master the difficult technical characteristics of being subtle and non-reflective yet highly legible. A considerable amount of design and field evaluation effort goes into these watches and the price often reflects this. Unlike “fake” tactical watches genuine articles are not designed on a whim by simply painting a case black, strapping on a military strap, and announcing you have a tac-watch in your portfolio.

The Sinn U50 on ZULUDIVER Marine Nationale Military Strap - Image Credit: WatchGecko Online Magazine
- Non-reflective case in Earth colours, brushed steel or black
- Few external projections to snag on clothing and equipment
- A low-profile dial with high legibility from the indices and hands
- Quality luminescence, with dial functions clearly defined in low light
- At least 100m water resistance (unless a lower manufacturers tested depth is given)
- Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective finish front and back
- Movement (irrespective of power source) protected from shocks
- Soft strap, fabric, or rubber, which readily rejects water and sand
- Battle proven provenance if you are lucky!
Good examples of such models would be:
BOLDR Venture Carbon Black Automatic Field Watch or the BOLDR Venture Black Dawn Automatic Field Watch
The new kids on the block offering uncompromising design and bullet proof build quality. These two models are a perfect blend of field and tactical.

The BOLDR Venture Carbon Black - Image Credit: WatchGecko Online Magazine

The BOLDR Venture Black Dawn - Image Credit: WatchGecko Online Magazine
Marathon Navigator Pilot's Watch - Sage Green or Black

The Marathon Navigator Pilot's Watch on Genuine Vintage Bond Military US Type NATO - Image Credit: WatchGecko Online Magazine
Geckota Phalanx Sierra Zero One Special Operations

The Geckota S-01 Phalanx - Image Credit: WatchGecko Online Magazine
So, can you get a tactical look without buying a dedicated watch?
Its inescapable; military imagery sells. It always has, from $5 olive drab ARMY t-shirts in the 1970s to Versace’s new Camouflage fleece (£980 in the Fall-21 Collection), the look has always been popular, and it shows no signs of slowing down.
One day you look at your Rolex Submariner and decide it could benefit from a more tactical look. Can this be pulled off? Yes, and remarkably easily. Watches like the Sub or the Seamaster are actually the easiest to “tacticalize” (think we invented a word there).

The Rolex Submariner on a Military - Image Credit: WatchGecko Online Magazine
Put a decent Military strap on any such watch and it changes the look totally. And this transformation is not without precedence. Check out the stunning Rolex Pro Hunter collection. Especially models like the Submariner Military on a black Military (NB: I have seen this model issued to an SF unit). Alternatively, research Project X who’s stylish alternations to the Submariner make the weapon of choice for Daniel Craig while he is off duty from being James Bond.
Of course, such bespoke watches are exorbitantly expensive however you can get a remarkably similar tactical look just by fitting a quality ZULUDIVER or WatchGecko Military strap to your steel watch. The secret to a successful transformation is to keep the strap completely plain or if that is just too militaristic for you, perhaps one or two subdued stripes at the most.
Second is to make sure that the metal work on the Military strap matches your case finish, then the strap will look like it belongs with your watch. If your case is polished stainless copy that, or brushed steel (or titanium) this too can be easily replicated with satin metal keepers. New to the collection for 2021 is gunmetal so this will work on a wide variety of watches.

Luminox on ZULUDIVER 141 Military in black - Image Credit: WatchGecko Online Magazine
You will be amazed at how effectively a high quality, thoughtfully designed, military strap changes the appearance of watch and makes it feel like you about to jump into (or out of) a C-130 rather the family car. Here are some very familiar watches which have been put through their basic training.
Whether you want a full-blown tactical watch or you are just a weekend warrior looking to change the appearance of your daily diver, the tactical look is here to stay. Embrace it and very soon you will be telling people the time is Zero Dark Thirty.
Useful links to some of the tactical type watches and straps featured in this article: