If the watch world tells us all that we need to reduce to a minimum of 39mm or even smaller case sizes, then U-Boat didn't get the memo. More likely, they completely disregarded it because they have firmly established themselves as the kings of the behemoth watches.
U-BOAT Chimera
Their first 2024 offering is relatively modest, at 46mm diameter, in chronograph and time-only versions, with a dial featuring a unique striped motif. Titled "Chimera Geometries", this new range is conceived in three dimensions. It features new spaces and grooves to allow the wearer to experience and perceive the passage of hours, minutes, and seconds with a different vision.
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Of course, the dial is the centrepiece of any U-Boat as it usually covers a fair amount of real estate. On the Chimera, wavy metal surfaces, composed of regular stripes running horizontally across the entire two-level dial, are presented in three different shades: black, green, and blue. Framed by a polished tungsten bezel these new dials in chronograph and time only boast numbers, indexes, and counters laser cut.
The perforations on the upper level allow glimpses of the lower surface, which is made of smoked sapphire, amplifying the stripes' three-dimensionality. Under the sapphire crystal, the chronograph versions are characterised by three tone-on-tone counters in three different shades plus an additional 24-hour counter; this latter counter defines the time-only version.
A window with smoked mineral glass on the side of the case gives sight of the Sellita SW500 for the chronograph version and ETA 2824 Top Soignè for the time only, both customised according to U-BOAT specifications and with a brass and tungsten rotor, with perlage machining and rhodium plating of the screwed bridges. Each model is limited to 300 units.
U-BOAT Somerso Damasco
U-Boat revisits the quintessential diver, the Sommerso watch, by giving it a new look using 46mm of Damascus steel. This incredible steal, made through an ancient method and more synonymous with blades, covers the entire watch, from the case to the rotating basil and the case back. The play of lines and light synonymous with Damascus is truly spectacular on a watch and incredibly rare.
To make it a functional dive watch, the Sommerso has a left-mounted crown and all the technical features you expect to find on a U-boat professional diver, such as sapphire crystal, triple-level dial, and vintage beige Super Luminova
Also on the dial is a date window and an additional 24-hour counter with Super Luminova details, while inside lies the precision and reliability of the Swiss Sellita SW200 movement. On the right side of the case, a plaque fixed with screws shows the serial number with an engraving, while on the opposite side, the large crown protector ensures waterproofing up to 300 meters. Completing the watch is a vulcanized rubber strap with UN-Boat’s logo embossed on it.
U-BOAT Unico Darkmoon
The final offering from U-Boat is small by their standards, at 44mm, but it is utterly captivating. It is a new watch that has been weathered to look extremely old. This collection is called Unico Darkmoon.
Unico is a bridge between the past and the future, a numbered-edition watch that plays with modernity and our concept of it. Each watch is a highly individual handmade creation, and every unit is always different.
Presented in a bronze PVD steel case, Unico has received a special treatment with various acids, in order to create an oxidized and antiqued effect. The case is then completely filled with an oil bath amplifying the three-dimensional visual effect on the watch. On the back of the case, the Locking Ring System allows for the replacement of the battery in the Swiss Ronda 712.3, which is also lubricated in an oil bath. Water resistant only to 50 meters due to the construction, Unico is fitted with a cognac-coloured strap and aged PVD bronze buckle.
Conclusions
Once again U-Boat take no prisoners with their designs from the watch world is richer for that. Their case sizes are definitely getting smaller, which is a good thing, but thankfully, their imaginative approach to watchmaking is undiminished. U-Boats are definitely divisive watches falling firmly into the love or loathe category, but looking at their current 2024 offerings, especially the stunning Damascus steel model, they are definitely still a force to be reckoned with, and this new collection adds much-needed sophistication to what has previously been enormous dive watches.
