For me, choosing watches for beginners is never about aiming for low-priced models unless a budget is explicitly stated. For me, the most important thing for neophyte collectors to obtain is a watch that is versatile, timeless, and offers them a good introduction to the world of watchmaking through either its technology, history, or design.
As such, there are few brands one could more heartily recommend than Omega. Often seen as Rolex’s strongest rival (at least in Omega’s mind),
5. Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch
Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch on 1973 British Military Watch Strap: SPACE-BOUND - Credit WatchGecko
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Okay, this is a bit of a snide pick, I know, but hear me out. Originally, the first model I placed on my list was the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. Spoiler alert: it’s coming up next. However, despite price not being something I think necessarily matters when it comes to a first watch (who’s to say a first-time buyer is short on funds?), it’s worth considering in the context of the purchase.
The classic Speedy used to be (and I mean as recently as the turn of this decade) an absolute bargain and frequently available for under £4,000. The latest model is almost double that, which is no small increase in a handful of years. As such, buying a new Speedmaster is not so much a question of whether it’s worth it (it’s still a great watch for the money and materially better than its ever been), but whether it’s the right watch for you at closer-to-10K-than-it-should-be.
One way to trial the wearing experience of a Speedmaster without having to shell out eight grand is to pick up a MoonSwatch. Yes, it’s technically a Swatch with Omega co-branding, but it’s an almost 1:1 recreation of the “moon brand’s” most famous model, so why not give it a spin for £250 and see how it feels before committing to the real McCoy?
Either the Moon or the Mercury models are suitably subtle if you prefer not to make a splashy statement, but my personal favourite (and the only MoonSwatch I own) is the Jupiter, which I wear on a cognac brown leather rally strap from WatchGecko (because the straps of all MoonSwatches are stitched from the pantyhose of Satan himself and should be avoided/put to fire where possible). I fitted my upgraded strap with an original Omega stainless steel buckle I sourced separately on eBay, but that cost me about 30% of the watch head itself so you might want to swerve that to save cash on this opening experiment.
4. Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch on Original Vintage Highley Genuine Leather Watch Strap - Credit WatchGecko
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Any of them, but the black dial, hesalite crystal, and closed case back version would be my choice.
If you liked the MoonSwatch, you’ll love the Moonwatch. This is the Omega. While my personal brand favourites reside in the Seamaster collection (the PloProf at #1 and the Seamaster 300 M at #2), the Speedy is arguably the best Omega to own.
Unless you never want to take off your watch, that is. The Moonwatch has one drawback from which there is no hiding: its 50-meter water resistance is a travesty. Omega needs to fix this (and definitely could). Until then, there’s no way the Speedmaster can constitute a one-watch collection, hence it occupying the lowest spot on this list afforded to “real” Omegas.
3. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra - Credit WatchGecko
Until very recently, I not only would not have picked reference 220.10.41.21.02.004 to feature on this list for the very reason it now does, but also I would have avoided the AT range entirely.
I have nothing against Aqua Terra watches. I’ve worked on thousands of them and can say without a shadow of a doubt they are well-made, high-performing products. However, they do tend to be a bit boring. That’s where reference 220.10.41.21.02.004 separates itself from the pack…
The blued hands and hour markers are a thing of beauty. Omega has used this particular treatment before on other white dial models such as a Broad Arrow Speedmaster and an America’s Cup limited edition Planet Ocean piece. At first, I baulked at the vivid and unnatural shade of blue used on the hour markers that looked weird to someone who was used to traditionally heat-blued components, but, over time, my resistance to its captivating beauty faltered.
Simply put, it looks awesome. It pulls you back in, over and over again. It’s not a cheap watch at almost £7,000, but it has Omega’s anti-magnetic movement within and the aesthetic versatility to be worn in all situations.
2. Omega Seamaster Railmaster
Omega Seamaster Railmaster - Credit WatchGecko
The brushed “denim” dial Railmaster 220.10.40.20.03.001 is about as weird a watch as Omega produces (barring the PloProf and the Bullhead Chronographs that still exist in the modern collection), but it has, I think, more cross-appeal than we watch nerds might realise.
While the standard Railmaster 220.10.40.20.01.001 would be my preference, I get the feeling a newcomer to the industry might find a lot of our more experience-driven choices a bit too conservative. Therefore, I feel the unusual but versatile blue and burnt orange colourway of 220.10.40.20.03.001 might be a solid choice for around 5K.
1. Omega Seamaster 300 M WHITE dial
Omega Seamaster 300 M WHITE dial - Credit WatchGecko
I can’t believe I’m saying it, but the white dial Seamaster 300 M might well be the best model in the collection. I’ve always loved the black. I believe the blue to be the most classic and the one I’ve come closest to buying in its current guise (I own a quartz version from the early naughties). And yet the white, which I ignored for years because I purportedly “hate” blackened hour markers and hands, is heavenly. The ceramic dial just works in white. It has a beautiful, elevated quality to it — like porcelain fresh from the kiln. The contrast is unbeatable and the flash of red text on the dial and on the tip of the seconds hand pops here better than on any other model.
Don’t believe me? Get one on your wrist alongside either the blue, black, or grey models. The white takes it by a country mile. Better still, it’s built like a tank and fitted with a beautiful (and visible) in-house movement, making it the perfect ambassador for the brand and industry en masse.
