It's no surprise that Rolex has not released any new watches for 2024. In their own words, we see a "fresh new look to some of their most iconic models." However, let's not start by being cynical and look at what has been released today.
Rolex's commitment to quality remains and one can't help but admire its efforts to make something brilliant even better—the constant striving for perfection. Yet, equally, it's always a little disappointing not to see new models. So what have they released in the last hour to tempt us from thousands of pounds in 2024?
Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II
Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. Credit: Rolex.
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Rolex has introduced two new Oystersteel versions of the GMT-Master II. Both feature a 24-hour graduated bi-colour Cerachrome bezel constructed in an attractive grey and black ceramic finish. The two alternate versions denote an Oyster bracelet or Jubilee bracelet option. The significant change, and we use this term cautiously, is that the 24-hour hand is now green, and the GMT-Master II text on the dial is also green. The watch is driven by calibre 3285, which is COSC-certified, but it's important to remember that this movement is now six years old.
Day-Date
18-carat Everose gold Day-Date. Credit: Rolex.
Again, the changes are subtle from previous models. The 18-carat Everose gold model in 40mm now has a slate ombré dial. The design transitions from dark to light, with the lightest sunburst effect in the centre, spreading outwards to a darker finish. Rolex describes this as a "symphony of shade". The indices remain Roman numeral and are now deconstructed, which gives far greater presence on the dial and also matches the angles of the fluted bezel. These elements are also in 18-carat pink gold.
The second Day-Date release is another 40mm with a Mother-of-Pearl dial. The first option has a white pearlescent effect, and this is the first time this specific material has been used in a Rolex Day-Date. It is highly iridescent and reflects all manner of colours as associated with pristine Mother-of-Pearl. Ten baguette-cut diamonds have replaced hour markers on this model.
We also have two new 36mm versions of the watch. One is in 18-carat yellow gold, which shares the same deconstructed indices, and another is the same material with 60 diamonds and a blue-green dial.
1908
1908. Credit: Rolex.
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- £68.00
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The 1908 is unquestionably one of Rolex's more striking watches and the 2024 release is no exception. Now available in 950 platinum this 39mm model has a dial which is decorated with a guillochage rice green motif. When it catches the light the pattern is superlative making this one of the more attractive watches in the collection.
An exhibition case back is still a rarity with a Rolex, so seeing the movement in operation is always a treat. The 1908 benefits from the new calibre 7140, which is highly decorated yet still benefits from all the technical elements we would expect from a Rolex in-house movement.
Deepsea
18-carat yellow gold Deepsea. Credit: Rolex.
The Deepsea is one of Rolex's professional dive models, synonymous with seemingly impossible trips to the deepest parts of the ocean. The 2024 model is in 18-carat yellow gold, which presents a mixed bag because one is never sure whether this has become a dress watch or is still a professional watch.
Technically, it has all of the same characteristics. Oddly, Rolex has retained ceramic and RLX titanium for some technical elements, which clash with the gold. The blue dial is synonymous with Submariners from bygone ages, and the new watch is unmistakably Rolex. It is a combination of elements that may take some time to get used to. You may also want to think twice about scuba diving with it as the entry price is £45,000+.
Cosmograph Daytona
Cosmograph Daytona. Credit: Rolex.
Rolex presents us with two new versions of the Daytona, which are pure dress watches, taking us even further away from the motorsport heritage of this model. Both feature Mother-of-Pearl dials, which are alternately black and white. They are set with brilliant-cut diamonds. In fairness, Rolex, do you call these reinterpretations so they are not trying to claim they are new watches?
Both are made from 18-carat gold, so there is no chance of a lower price entry model this year. The Mother-of-Pearl dials have been slightly re-spaced to enhance visibility, and both watches are saturated with 36 diamonds. Once again, a Calibre 4131 beats at the heart of the Daytona. Priced at over £50,000, these watches will be for an elite few.
Sky-Dweller
Sky-Dweller. Credit: Rolex.
Finally, we have the 2024 Sky-Dweller. Available for the first time with the Jubilee bracelet and in 18-carat Everose or yellow gold. The links on the Jubilee bracelet have been very slightly redesigned to complement the complex dial style of the Sky-Dweller which again highlights Rolex's exceptional attention to detail. Whether you'd notice this without being told is another matter. The 42mm watch is available with new dial colours, which are grey, brown, and blue sunburst.
Again, primarily because of the use of materials, this model has an entry point of £45,400.
Conclusions
We'd love to get excited about the new Rolexes we have seen today, but unfortunately, we can't. These subtle design changes have done nothing to make the brand affordable; quite the opposite, with the plethora of gold being deployed, Their historic and undeniably wonderful tool watch heritage seems to be slipping further away.
These new watches will undoubtedly sell wonderfully, and soon, there will be a waiting list, so Rolex clearly knows what they're doing. However, to some of us who have had a long-term love affair with the brand, it seems to continue to loose direction.
