In early 2022 WatchGecko and NTH pooled creativity to launch an exciting range of watches with a nod to some of the most famous Submariner models from a bygone era. Within weeks the range was sold out so over the last few months we have channel resources to replace stock. Thankfully batch 2 of the Vintage NTH Subs is now available.
The Vintage Sub collection continues to add a new dimension to both NTH and WatchGecko. You get all the technical capability you demand from a quality 300m steel dive watch but with an exterior that makes the watch look like it’s over 50 years old. To achieve this illusion various elements of the Subs were systematically and carefully aged. It was a multi-pronged method, which involved finding the correct patina colour for the hands and indices, choosing revised age-appropriate fonts, and designing a crystal inspired by watches from the classic Bond era.
We have retained the original four variants, two based on the existing Näcken case and two on the new Amphion.
The Vintage Näckens pay homage to the original Tudor Subs from the 1970s and are available in Admiral Blue or Reef green. As the names suggest, there is a strong sub-aquatic theme to both the watches with colours carefully chosen to mirror the tones of a deep ocean. The obvious changes from the standard Näcken are the patina indices and hands, as well as the box crystal with a cyclops lens. The goal was to create something akin to a circa 1975 Snowflake ref: 9411, which looked like it had experienced the darkest parts of the sea and is now a treasured heirloom.
Alternatively, the style of the Amphion leans more to the iconic Ref: 6538. The Onyx Black model is the quintessential Submariner; the “grail watch” that so many of us aspire to but then reality kicks in and we will probably never own. The Amphion is in every way a thoroughly capable 300m dive watch but when you look down at it on the Oyster bracelet and glance at the dial you are transported back in time. Like its sibling Näcken, the Amphion feels like it has been handed down through generations yet is still totally functional – a watch that has explored the depths and ends of the Earth.
And finally, we have the Anchor Grey Amphion. Conversely a totally new take on the Vintage theme, this watch is in subtle yet striking battleship grey on both dial and bezel which looks every part the colour you always wanted to see the original watch in but was never produced. This model is very much a passionate reimagining of the design classic in a contemporary timeless colour, which really suits the aged patina and crystal.
Technically the new watches of course meet all the requirements for a modern 300m water-resistant tool watch. The build quality is what we have come to expect from NTH, who know their target audiences and the demands that come as a result.
All four watches are powered by the Miyota automatic cal. 9015 movement: a workhorse 24-jewel Citizen unit with Parashock and 42 hours of power reserve. This is a relatively new movement, having been introduced in 2009 as a development of the 8215. The 9015 benefits from a ball bearing rotor and beats at 28,800 vph. Parameters for deviation are -10 to +30 seconds per day, which certainly meets most requirements.
Rather than BGW9 lume, as found in the standard Sub range, the Vintage collection uses X1 GL 7500 C Super Luminova. The use of X1 increases performance by up to 60% after two hours compared to the standard lume. The manufacturer claims that legibility, measured against ISO 3157, will be extended by at least a factor of 1.6 over long periods.
All models come on a robust Oyster bracelet with flip-lock although they do look equally good on additional NATOs or leather.
Technical elements aside, perhaps imagination is the key point of this new collection. As a group of watches, they are designed to fire your imagination with the aim of providing what never existed or was simply unattainable.
They are not a design collection that we have entered into hastily. Much thought and analysis has gone into the creation of the NTH/WatchGecko Vintage Subs and their creation proved to be a perfect meeting ground for designers and enthusiasts within both companies.
These watches have once again been produced in a highly limited number of only 25 of each variant and all are priced at £680. Access the full range here and begin your Vintage Sub story.