Watches have a rich history entwined with culture and historical events. Dive watches, now popular for everyday wear, trace their origins to Rolex's patented Oyster case from 1926, and the need for timepieces capable of withstanding challenging conditions. Similarly, chronographs have become integral to activities ranging from automotive racing to space exploration. In the realm of military history, the iconic Flieger watches we know and love today were originally used by pilots during World War II.
You don't have to be a pilot or a history buff to appreciate the practicality of a modern Flieger watch. Known for its exceptional legibility, this style features large Arabic numerals against a high-contrast dial. While the original Flieger watches were sizable at 55mm to allow for easy legibility and featured crowns big enough to wind with gloves on, today's versions maintain legibility while favoring more wearable dimensions. In this article, we will explore the Top 5 Flieger watches, showcasing a range of styles and budgets.
Seiko SRPJ87
SEIKO SRPJ87. Credit: Seiko.
Kicking things off is the Seiko SRPJ87, a solid choice for a more budget friendly automatic watch. Many watch enthusiasts will remember a time where you could pick up an ultra-legible Seiko pilot watch for around £50. While those days are long gone, the Seiko SRPJ87, now priced at £260, still delivers a bargain. Providing all the information you could want at a glance, without breaking the bank, this is timepiece is a great introduction into the world of Flieger watches. With a case size of 36.4mm it’s super wearable, a huge departure from the days of old where Flieger’s were around 20mm larger. It comprises of a straightforward dial featuring the day and date, minute markers every five minutes and hour markers on the inner track.
Nodus Sector Pilot
Nodus Sector Pilot. Credit: WatchGecko.
Most watches on this list are from big brands with long histories of Flieger production. And even though it's fun to learn about the history of these original watches with giant cases and pocket watch movements, a 55 mm watch isn't practical for daily wear (sorry, Laco). So, what does a practical modern pilot watch look like today? I’d argue it looks a lot like the 39mm Sector Pilot from Nodus. The NH36 powered all-rounder combines all the original Flieger charm including an oversized crown and a legible dial, adding 100 meters of water resistance, a rotating bezel and day/date complications.
Laco Replika 55
Laco Replica 55. Credit: Laco.
No list of Fliegers would be complete without Laco, one of the original manufacturers. Like Seiko, Laco is known for making robust, affordable automatic pilot watches. Many are available for less than $500, such as the Aachen 39. Of course, Laco also make high end watches that cost considerably more.
At a whopping $4,190 and powered by an ETA based movement and featuring only 5 ATM of water resistance, the Replika 55 isn’t going to win any awards for being a bargain. But if you want a taste of the original dimensions, this massive pilot watch offers an authentic experience.
IWC
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63. Credit: IWC.
The International Watch Company is synonymous with luxury pilot watches. No conversation on pilot watches is complete without the inclusion of this luxury brand associated with ceramic cases and in-house movements with impressive power reserves. But with a catalog dating back decades, including during World War II as an original Flieger producer, which IWC to include on this list? With my own money, I’d opt for something such as the Mark XX to enjoy IWC provenance without taking out a second mortgage. But if money is no object, it's hard not to be drawn to the Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63. Sure, at about $50,000, it's the price of two decent cars. But with its 46mm ceramic case, this IWC finds a balance of modern materials with (nearly) original sizing that is hard not to love.
Sinn 356
Sinn 356. Credit: Sinn.
We’ve covered a wide range of Fliegers, from a budget friendly Seiko, a versatile microbrand, an oversized Laco, to an IWC with sky-high pricing. With such a variety of Flieger watches available today, finding the “best” Flieger depends on exactly what each wearer cares about, be that affordability, provenance, functionality, or unique features.
If I had to pick one pilot’s watch to rule them all, one that offers a bit of each of these categories, it's hard to beat the Sinn 356. While it’s fun to appreciate the massive and bold dials that Fliegers have their roots in, it’s also fair to acknowledge that it's 2024, I’m not a pilot, and I don’t need a historically accurate watch in my daily life. What I do need is: wearable dimensions, useful complications such as a chronograph, a robust sapphire crystal, impressive water resistance and a trusted Selitta movement. The Sinn 356 has it all! Plus, it even says “FLIEGER” on the dial which serves as a reminder of the heritage of the originals, whilst enjoying a more modern timepiece.