Sizing a metal watch bracelet is one of those things every collector should know how to do, but lots avoid doing it themselves (that includes myself)
In this article, I’ll walk you through how to adjust different bracelet types—whether you’ve got screw links, push pins, or a micro-adjustable clasp. Let’s get into it.
Step 1 - Gather your Tools
Everything I’m using in this article is available on the WatchGecko Website. So, if you're missing anything—straps, bracelets, tools—you’ll find it all there.
Just hit the product links in this article and we’ll have you covered.
Here’s what you’ll need:
- Spring bar tool
- Small screwdriver set
- Link removal tool or Pin pusher and hammer
- Bracelet holder or soft surface
Nice to have but not needed:
- Loupe
- Tape
Step 2 - Remove the Watch Head
Before I begin working on the links, I’m going to take the bracelet off the watch
This isn’t a necessary step but I find it easier to work on the bracelet without the weight of the watch head moving around
So just do what works best for you
What Type of Bracelet Do You Have?
Bracelet Type 1 - Screw Pins
Screw links are the easiest to work with—just use a small screwdriver to back out the screws holding the links together.
Always unscrew on a stable surface, and if you’re a bit unsteady add a bit of tape on the bracelet to protect them from slips.
Tips: If a screw is being stubborn, use a bit of heat from a hairdryer—it may be thread-locked.
If you’re removing multiple links, it’s important to remove them equally from both sides of the clasp to keep things balanced.
Bracelet Type 2 - Push Pins
These look like screws but are actually pins.
Look for arrows on the inside of the bracelet—that shows you the direction to push the pin out.
It’s best to use a dedicated link removal tool, but this method can also work with a pin pusher and hammer
Line up the pusher tool with the pin and turn the
Push the pin out in the direction of the arrow, remove the link, then reinstall the pin in the opposite direction.
This method is a bit fiddlier than screws but still very doable.
Bracelet Type 3 - Pin and Collar
This system uses a pin with a tiny collar that sits inside the link and is common on older Seiko divers.
Same process as push pins, but when you remove the pin, don’t lose the collar—it’s often hiding inside the middle link.
To reassemble, insert the collar first, then push the pin through. It helps to work over a tray or white surface in case anything drops.
Bracelet Type 4 - Mesh
For this type of bracelet we are simply moving the clasp along the mesh rather than removing any links.
You can use your spring bar tool to hook under the latch and once opened move it along the bracelet for the perfect fit. Push it back down to secure the positioning of the clasp.
Step 4 - Micro Adjust Clasps
Once the link count is right, fine-tune the fit with the micro-adjust holes in the clasp.
Use your spring bar tool to move the spring bar to a tighter or looser hole.
Small changes here can make a big difference in comfort.
Some newer watches have quick-adjust clasps that let you size on the fly—no tools needed. Rolex, Tudor and Omega all have examples of these clasps.
Just slide, push a button, or lift a lever to expand or contract the bracelet.
These are fantastic for finding the perfect fit when traveling or experiencing temperature changes when your wrist swells and shrinks.
Other Bracelet Types
It’s also worth noting that some brands use their own proprietary adjustment systems.
IWC, for example, has a push-button mechanism on their five-link and Ingenieur bracelets. So before you start, always check what kind of bracelet you’re working with—it might not be the standard method
Conclusion
Adjusting a metal bracelet doesn’t have to mean a trip to the jeweller.
With the right tools and a bit of patience, you can do it yourself—cleanly and confidently.
If you are after any more information after having read this article, then head over to the WatchGecko YouTube channel and look for our 'How-To' series of videos.
