Squale’s iconic 1521 diver’s watch has been a long-established favourite here at WatchGecko, but now it takes on a new dimension thanks to COSC certification. COSC stands for Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, and it’s the highest accolade for accuracy that Switzerland can hand out to watchmakers. At the end of this process, the watches that achieve this recognition are certified to ISO3159 – with only around 5% of the new Swiss watch population getting the certificate every year.
So this is clearly a big deal for Squale. But the irony is that from the outside you really wouldn’t notice: and we mean that in a positive way, because to all intents and purposes, this is still the 1521 that we know and love. Just with a more accurate Sellita SW200-1 movement inside.
Squale 1521 Swiss Made COSC Diver's Watch - Blue Dial - Credit Squale
Squale’s history in dive watches is second to none, although from the beginning it’s always been all about the case rather than the actual movement for Squale, as the company started off making watch cases for some of the biggest names in the industry, before moving on to make its own complete watches.
It adopted blue as its signature colour right from the very genesis of the brand, and the latest models showcase this perfectly. The 1521 COSC comes in light blue as well as black. with both available for £1540 on the WatchGecko website. There are a few things that mark it out as being a COSC watch: first and foremost the “Chronometer Officially Certified” marking on the dial, in place of the Squale shark logo. The dial has also been reworked, with fully applied indices instead of printed ones. There’s additionally an aluminium bezel with SuperLuminova markers to give maximum legibility.
Squale 1521 Swiss Made COSC Diver's Watch - Black Dial - Credit Squale
The whole thing comes in an impressive Peli Case box as well as two additional straps (one in Italian leather and the other in fabric), a velvet bag, a Squale certificate of authenticity, and finally the all-important COSC certificate, with information about the rigorous tests undergone by the movement.
The toughest decision will be which variant to go for: the light blue is an iconic Squale colour, but there’s something about the black that is classically compelling. Would it be rude to ask who really needs a Rolex Submariner now?
For the majority of people, of course, the COSC won’t matter, and that opens up some more interesting possibilities, as for the first time (that I can remember, at least) you can have a Squale in green. The Green Ray watch features a sunburst dial that progressively darkens towards the outer edges, suggesting a descent into the depths of the ocean, and it’s perfectly set off by a green Italian leather strap. Some people of course will now only settle for a COSC version, but at £1000 the non-COSC offers a considerable saving for exactly the same heritage and a difference that you won't even notice, within the same basic Sellita movement.
Squale 1521 Swiss Made Divers Watch - Green Ray Dial - Credit Squale
My personal favourite of the latest collection is another non-COSC watch, also water-resistant to 500 metres: and it’s one of the most polarising options in the office. I love the bronze 1521 (with a steel caseback), but it’s fair to say that others don’t quite share the enthusiasm. The sticking point is the crown and date at two o’clock (as opposed to the crown at four o’clock and the date at three o’clock on the other watches discussed so far) which is an extremely rare beast indeed: I don’t remember seeing this layout anywhere else. For me though, the colour is the most captivating aspect of this watch, calling to mind the deep blue of the original Squale we had on loan from Watches of Lancashire recently: https://www.watchgecko.com/blogs/magazine/a-tale-of-two-squales-1.
Squale 1521 Swiss Made Bronze Diver's Watch - Blue Sunray Dial - Credit Squale
One of the things I love about this brand is the direct lineage to its past, and nowhere is that more evident than in the bronze 1521, which is why I’m picking it out as the one that I would personally go for (although it carries exactly the same price tag as the COSC version).
As another example of that famed lineage, you can still buy a Super Squale (a name first trademarked in 1959) today, in a variety of colours: the grey is particularly striking. But if you’re after a Squale that makes an impact, look no further than the full lume 1521, which taps perfectly into the night diver vibe. As well as a luminous white face, there are orange markers that make the whole watch properly stand out – whatever the visibility conditions, and I like the fact that there’s no date on this watch, which adds a certain uncluttered clarity to the overall aesthetic. It’s a Squale that looks somewhat different to the others, taking the brand in a different direction, while keeping the whole tool watch philosophy at front and centre. It’s also competitively priced at £1250.
Squale 1521 Swiss Made Diver's Watch - Full Luminous Militaire - Credit Squale
So once again, there are plenty of options from what’s one of the most interesting and storied authentic dive watch manufacturers out there. It’s just a question of which one to go for. Bronze, full lume, or COSC?
