Why Second Hour Watches Stand Out in Independent Watchmaking

Independent watchmaking has grown into one of the most exciting corners of the industry, and Australia has quietly developed some strong voices within it. Among them is Second Hour, a Melbourne-based brand founded in 2019 by husband-and-wife duo Peter and Akira McDermott.

From the outset, Second Hour has taken a deliberate, quality-first approach. Unlike brands that flood the market with endless colourways and limited editions, they focus on a small, curated collection. Each release goes through an extended development cycle, with prototypes tested and refined until the final watch reflects both robust engineering and thoughtful design. The result? A catalogue that feels purposeful, original, and impressively well-executed for a young brand.

Let’s take a closer look at some of their standout models.

The Gin Clear Mk 2 is the model that really cemented Second Hour’s reputation. It’s the product of three years of reengineering after the first Gin Clear, and the refinements show.

On the wrist, the watch feels reassuring yet versatile. At 40mm in diameter, 47mm lug to lug, and just 12.25mm thick, it strikes a balance between classic dive watch presence and everyday wearability. The case is 316L stainless steel, but here’s the twist: it’s hardened to 1200 Vickers for significantly improved scratch resistance. The finishing is nuanced, with brushed top surfaces, polished chamfers, and an undercut mid-case that helps the watch wear slimmer.

The 120-click unidirectional bezel has a fully lumed ceramic insert and a finely serrated edge for grip. It’s satisfying in operation—smooth, firm, and practical, with a slight overhang that makes it easier to turn even with gloves. Water resistance is a serious 300 metres, backed up by a large screw-down crown that’s deeply knurled and extremely user-friendly.

Power comes from the tried-and-true Swiss ETA 2824 automatic movement, hand-regulated in-house for better accuracy. Protecting the dial is a flat sapphire crystal with six layers of anti-reflective coating.

Dial options are varied— Arctic White, Sunburst Black, Pastel Blue, and Ocean Sunset—each with crisp applied indices. The trapezoid markers at 12, 4, and 8 o’clock give the dial a distinct signature while aiding orientation. Pencil hands, BGW9 lume, and a red-tipped seconds hand (mirrored by a subtle crown ring) finish the look.

Perhaps the most impressive element is the custom five-link bracelet. It’s not just comfortable and well-built, but also packed with features: quick-release spring bars, a divers’ extension, a toolless micro-adjust clasp, and screw links. The only compromise is the recessed spring bar placement, which limits strap-swapping with NATOs or thicker rubber options. That said, the bracelet feels integral to the watch and rarely leaves you wanting.

Flip the watch over and you’ll find a detailed engraving of a Hawksbill turtle, underscoring its marine tool-watch credentials. Overall, the Gin Clear Mk 2 is a dive watch designed for both serious use and daily wear—functional, refined, and built to last.

If the Gin Clear is a tool, the Mandala Mk 3 is more of a statement piece. It shares the same footprint— 40mm by 47mm—but it’s slimmer at just over 10.5mm thick, making it an easy fit under a cuff while still robust enough for everyday wear.

The headline feature is the multi-layered guilloché dial, which radiates outwards in a shifting pattern that catches the light beautifully. Colourways include Salmon, Mint Fresh, Silver Blue, and Midnight Black, each paired with diamond-cut hands coated in BGW9 Super-LumiNova for legibility.

A sloped chapter ring frames the dial, tying the whole composition together. Powering the watch is the Miyota 9015 automatic movement—a slim, reliable Japanese calibre with hacking and hand-winding.

As with the Gin Clear, the caseback is engraved—in this case with a geometric mandala motif that mirrors the dial. The bracelet is also bespoke: a polished seven-link design that leans more towards dress watch refinement while still offering a toolless micro-adjust clasp.

The Mandala Mk 3 is a perfect “crossover” watch: refined enough to dress up, but practical enough to be an everyday companion.

For something entirely different, Second Hour created the Memoir. At 37mm, it’s smaller than the other models and deliberately vintage-inspired, drawing from Art Deco influences.

The dial is the star here: printed mosaic-style numerals, a railroad minute track, syringe hands, and a small-seconds register at six o’clock. It’s a design that feels authentically period without slipping into pastiche.

A domed sapphire crystal enhances the vintage feel, while C3 Super-LumiNova ensures it’s still functional at night. Inside is a Swiss Ronda quartz movement—a deliberate choice to keep the watch slim, reliable, and maintenance-free.

The Memoir wears lightly and elegantly, making it a great option for smaller wrists or collectors who appreciate compact, historically inspired pieces.

What ties these three models together is not just the brand name, but a clear design philosophy. Second Hour doesn’t recycle generic cases, off-the-shelf hands, or default dial layouts. Every element—indices, casebacks, handsets, typography—is custom-designed.

They also make use of serious materials across the range: hardened stainless steel, sapphire crystals with AR coatings, fully lumed ceramic bezels, and custom bracelets with modern clasp technology. Lume is thoughtfully applied, with BGW9 and C3 used where they make the most sense.

Second Hour deliberately avoids rushing products to market. Each watch undergoes extensive prototyping and testing before release, and that patience shows in the final product. For collectors, this translates to pieces that offer excellent finishing and strong value without feeling derivative.

Whether it’s the dive-ready Gin Clear Mk 2, the versatile Mandala Mk 3, or the compact and characterful Memoir, each watch feels distinct yet bound by a common ethos. These are watches built not to follow trends, but to stand apart: original in detail, robust in construction, and designed with long-term wear in mind.

Second Hour may be a young brand, but its output reflects the kind of maturity and restraint that many larger players could learn from. For those seeking something outside the mainstream, with character and substance baked in, this Australian independent is well worth a closer look.