Oris continue to keep their ear to the ground with a new movement tailored towards the modern day wearer…
You may have seen Oris recently made headlines with the announcement of a brand new in house calibre for the brand named ‘Calibre 400’. This impressive new movement boasts 5 days of power reserve through a double-barrel construction, 10 years warranty, anti-magnetic properties through the use of silicon and a size of 28mm x 4.75mm. Today, however, is the first time we see this new movement in a watch and Oris have picked a well-loved model to receive a new beating heart.
It was through a VR headset and a virtual meeting over Zoom I learnt a little more about this new advancement for Oris. Let’s explain what we saw.
The New Oris Aquis Date
The watch itself is going to be extremely familiar on the surface of things. The Oris Aquis Date is by no means a secret in the watch world, the model offers a uniquely modern aesthetic in a range of variations and sizes. It is one of their flagship models so it is logical we see it being the first watch fitted with their new movement.
You might be sat there thinking that not much has changed. This blue dial Aquis Date only has two visible changes from the front of the watch including ‘5 days’ text on the lower half of the dial and a slightly larger date window at the 6 o'clock position thanks to the new movement. But flip the watch over and nothing is the same.
The New Calibre 400
So here it is, the new Calibre 400. This new creation from Oris has truly been created with the Oris customer in mind. The brand knows and understands that many of their customers own more than one watch and will regularly swap out what is on their wrist. As many of us will know, leaving a mechanical watch for a few days unworn will normally result in further winding and setting being required before it is ready to roll. Well, this new movement solves that issue by introducing two barrels to increase the power reserve to 5 days - all while keeping the movement sensibly sized for wearable case widths.
The next issue for modern-day wearers of mechanical watches is our constant connection to technology and magnets. Be it speakers, laptops, phones or iPads, technology is always around us meaning the importance of having a watch that is anti-magnetic has never been greater to ensure smooth operation and running. Again Oris understand this, which is why they engineered the Calibre 400 using more than 30 non-ferrous and anti-magnetic components, including a silicon escape wheel and a silicon anchor. In testing by the renowned Laboratoire Dubois, Calibre 400 deviated by less than 10 seconds a day after exposure to 2,250 gauss.
This anti-magnetic focus is key for the Calibre 400 as the brand is prioritising efficiency in daily use. Accuracy of the movement is also within COSC -3/+5 seconds a day.
The last important aspect of the new Calibre 400 is the 10 years warranty and service timeframe. Oris is so confident in the performance of the advanced technologies integrated into Calibre 400 that they are offering a 10-year warranty on all Oris watches powered by the new movement. In addition, Oris is also proposing 10-year recommended service intervals on Calibre 400 watches. This means that barring accidental damage or water resistance checks, you shouldn’t need to bring in a Calibre 400 watch for service until 2030 at the earliest.
A couple of other things...
To share this information with us, Oris put on a fantastic modern-day event over Zoom for members of the press which included a VR headset tour of the new movement up close and personal along with a breakfast hamper to really keep everyone in attendance happy. We were also joined in this call by the co-CEO of Oris Rolf Studer as well as an Oris watchmaker. This call allowed for a QnA session which we learnt a few interesting things. The first being that due to the 28mm x 4.75mm size of the movement, the new Calibre 400 will be able to fit into watch cases that are as small as 38mm. This opens up a huge amount of exciting opportunities for new products powered by this movement and gives a subtle hint into how Oris see this movement being featured in the rest of their range.
Another point is although the movement closely resembles the Oris Bear’s face, this wasn’t planned and was totally by coincidence. That’s the sort of top-notch reporting you come to the WatchGecko Online Mag for - right?
Case width: 43.5mm
Movement: the new Calibre 400
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and date
Power reserve: 5 days
Case: Stainless steel
Dial: Gradient blue
Strap: Black rubber strap or stainless steel metal bracelet, both with security folding clasp with extension and Quick Strap Change
Price: CHF 3,200 on the bracelet or CHF 3,100 on the strap.
Availability: November 2020.
What is there left to say about this watch? The statistics truly speak for themselves. Sure the watch itself is pretty standard from Oris visually with a blue Aquis Date not exactly being groundbreakingly new, but the real groundbreaking stuff is at the heart of this new piece. If you look at the Oris lineup it is clear they are a brand that understands what their customer wants. If you want a watch that is modern, sporty and timeless you go for an Aquis Date. If you want something that has some heritage to it go for a Pointer Date or a 65 Diver. Are charitable acts important to you? Pick up one of the many Movember editions.
The point being Oris knows and understands who buys their watches and what those people care about. This is crucial for success nowadays with new watch brands sprouting up all over the world. As I said, the watch itself is quite standard and is to be expected from Oris, but the in house movement is the hot topic of the day. 10-year warranty, 5-day power reserve and anti-magnetic properties is the TLDR of the Calibre 400 but the fact this movement can fit watches that are 38mm wide also seriously excites me. If Oris has never piqued your interest before, now is the time.
Not all ‘in house movements’ are created equal and like it or not, Oris just proved how it should be done.
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