When it comes to value, the entry-level luxury brands of the Swatch Group are hard to beat. Not only do these brands, such as Longines, Certina, Tissot, Mido, and the subject of this article, Hamilton, have genuine and traceable heritage and the associated prestige, but they also benefit massively from the economy of scale and know-how sharing within the group.
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Day Date Automatic - Credit WatchGecko
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What that means in layman’s terms is you get a lot of expertise, performance, and build quality in a relatively affordable package. While this has always been true, the advantages posed and enjoyed by this powerful stable of brands have rarely been more obvious.
The industry is changing. Three distinct pricing tiers have emerged. Brands with prices that run up to around £2,000 are experiencing great success as newcomers to the luxury watch game look to dip their toes in water that never gets too hot, while seasoned collectors look for market-proof propositions that allow them to scratch the itch to buy without risking too much of their hard-earned cash. Brands operating in the top tier of pricing, say, anything over £10,000, also seem shockingly resistant to fluctuations in buyer confidence, thanks, in large part, to the fact they preach to those with deep pockets who remain able to buy without hesitation whatever it is they want.
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Day Date Automatic - Credit WatchGecko
The middle bracket, however, is a dog fight. Watches that retail between £2,000 and £10,000 have never been harder to sell thanks to this segment of the market taking a massive hit on pre-owned pricing over the last 18 months. Established luxury makers like Rolex, Omega, and TAG Heuer have all hiked prices in recent times, making what was once a no-brainer purchase harder and harder to justify.
While that sounds a little negative (as intended), it’s good news for brands like Hamilton, who continue to pump out pieces that offer indisputable bang for buck.
Retailing for just £915, the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Day Date Automatic (reference H64635550) packs a bunch of impressive functions and technical specifications into a wearable 42 mm case.
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Day Date Automatic - Credit WatchGecko
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- £68.00
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- £68.00
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- £68.00
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- £68.00
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- £68.00
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Aesthetically, the inspiration is clear. The enlarged, generously lumed cardinal hour markers and silver dial recall the early days of flight-ready timekeepers. Paired with a logo-stamped brown strap, the heritage vibes are strong, but the souped-up ETA-base calibre ticking away behind the scenes is anything but old school. Although it’s par for the course these days, the H-30 Powermatic is still an impressive piece of kit for a sub-1K watch.
The finishing is a notch above the standard ETA fare, with snailing and perlage decoration visible through a display case back, but the best thing about this movement family is (and always has been) the extended 80-hour power reserve. The addition of the day/date function also adds tangible value to this piece and sets it apart from “true” Pilot watches that prioritise simple time-telling legibility above all else.
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Day Date Automatic - Credit WatchGecko
Subtle stylistic quirks to this watch also set it apart from many of its Flieger-categorised brethren. A wide slanted chapter ring, which displays the minute markers, adds unusual depth to the display, while the 12-hour scale, printed within the inner circle of the dial, is a useful if slightly superfluous addition to the classic “Type B” layout that shows double-digit minutes in place of the 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10, and 11 hour markers.
A stout but easily graspable crown flanked by protectors is also slightly off the beaten track. Normally, one might expect to see a massive onion or “diamond” crown protruding from the right-hand side of the case, threatening as they always do, to catch every doorframe through which you pass or take your eye out if you glance at your watch askance.
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Day Date Automatic - Credit WatchGecko
At 12.1 mm thick, the Aviation Pilot Day Date Automatic is pleasingly slim for a 42 mm wide watch, and its ubiquitous 20 mm lug width makes it prime for after-market strap experimentation.
On the subject of the strap, it is worth mentioning that the somewhat controversially branded band (which might come across as a bit gimmicky to some), doesn’t taper at all. While a 20/20 mm strap is hardly uncommon for a Pilot’s watch of these dimensions, it might be viewed as a little inelegant by modern standards, given the availability of incredible 20/18 or even 20/16 straps in attractive leathers (or canvas, which would also suit this watch rather well). On the plus side, however, this watch benefits from the “Easy Click” system, which should make switching out the standard strap for something a little higher grade a cinch.
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Day Date Automatic - Credit WatchGecko
- Regular price
- £128.00
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- Sale price
- £128.00
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- per
- Regular price
- £128.00
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- Sale price
- £128.00
- Unit price
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- Regular price
- £128.00
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- Sale price
- £128.00
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Given the wearability, 100-meter water resistance, subtle but interesting dial, useful functionality, and an incredible price, the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Day Date is perfectly positioned as a Go Anywhere, Do Anything watch. While it isn’t the ideal evening attire, it is unlikely to ruffle too many feathers should it make an appearance at an event better suited to more formal watches as it is, at least, a quiet piece for its size.
It truly comes into its own, however, on an adventure. This is the kind of watch that looks better the more beaten-to-hell it is, so if it is a piece that appeals to you, I would suggest wearing it into the ground to get the best out of it. Better still, pair it with a rugged canvas military strap and take it into the wilderness on your next trek, or strap it over the sleeve of a threadbare leather jacket and set off cloud-bound in search of new horizons, just as the earliest aviators who inspired this watch did.
