Beyond Watches and Wonders 2026 - Indie Brands in Geneva

Bored of seeing Rolex all over Watches and Wonders? So are we. Now lets shift the focus to some of the independent brands that have been exhibiting in Geneva this week.

Based just down the road from our office, Fears continues to build on its distinctly British identity and history with their Spring 2026 releases unveiled just before Time to Watches.

The headline piece for me is the Brunswick 40 “Filton”, a pilot-inspired model that pays tribute to Bristol’s aviation history. It’s a thoughtful design that is less about overt military styling and more about refined nods to cockpit instrumentation. It’s 40mm case sits very comfortably on my wrist and I’m fond of the green dial variant in person. At £3,350, it sits comfortably in that space where heritage storytelling meets everyday wearability.

Alongside it, the Redcliffe gets a seasonal pop of colour with three new pastel dial options with complimentary straps. These bring a softer, more playful edge to the collection, perfect for summer without straying into gimmick territory. I have to say that for my skin tone, unfortunately these colours don’t work at all, but there will be many people that have different complexions that these watches will look brilliant on. At £2,750, they’re likely to be strong sellers.

Baltic has built a reputation for delivering vintage-inspired designs with modern practicality, and their new Heures du Monde might be their most compelling release yet.

At £1,200, this is a genuinely accessible worldtimer, something that’s surprisingly rare in the market. But what really sets it apart are the stone dials, available in three variations, Tiger Eye, Labradorite, and Sodalite, each bringing a completely different character to the watch.

Technically, it’s just as impressive with a 24-hour rotating rehaut for tracking multiple time zones, bi-directional brushed ceramic bezel, and a compact 37mm case with an 11.3mm thickness. On the wrist, it hits a sweet spot of balanced, wearable, and distinctive while not feeling small or lacking in presence.

Demand has already outpaced supply, with pieces selling out online. And yes, the labradorite dial is every bit as good as I’d hoped. Possibly too good for me not to consider buying!

Furlan Marri continues to refine its formula: classic aesthetics, thoughtful details, and pricing that feels almost too reasonable.

Their latest release, a mechaquartz chronograph with a meteorite dial, is a perfect example. It blends the brand’s signature vintage-inspired design language with a dial material that usually belongs in far higher price brackets.

At £850, it’s difficult to think of another watch that offers this combination of elegance and novelty. Dennison comes close but if you want complications this is the watch to get. The meteorite adds texture and individuality, while the mechaquartz movement keeps things practical and accessible.

It’s a dress watch, but one with just enough personality to stand out and with versatile strap options available from us, you could make this an everyday piece with ease.

Not every release needs to take itself seriously, and Nivada Grenchen proved that with one of the more unexpected talking points of the week.

Initially presented as an April Fool’s concept, their Antarctic model featuring animated penguins turns out to be very real and fully functional. Inspired by vintage automaton watches, it adds a whimsical, kinetic element to the dial like something you’d see in an Attenborough documentary.

It’s unusual, slightly irreverent, and a reminder that watchmaking doesn’t always have to be about restraint and tradition. If you’re curious, you would have had the chance to see it in action (literally) at Chronopolis.

At the other end of the spectrum, Atelier Wen is operating in a very different league with this model.

The Perception “Inflection” is a watch that demands to be experienced in person. Crafted from tantalum, a material known for its density and difficulty to machine, it has a weight and presence that’s immediately noticeable.

Visually, it’s equally distinctive and subtle in some ways, but unlike anything else once you spend time with it. Powering the watch is a Girard-Perregaux movement, reinforcing that this is serious horology, not just an exercise in materials.

At €26,000, it’s a significant investment but also a clear statement of intent from a brand that continues to push beyond expectations. There is also an application process to acquire an allocation.