I could well imagine someone getting excited about several pieces in Squale’s current catalogue, but, for me, there is one model family that stands head and shoulders above the rest for its purity of design and vision. I’m talking about the Super Squale watch family and how appropriate an ambassador for the Squale brand it is.
Super Squale Arabic Numerals Diver's Watch - Credit WatchGecko
Super Squale Arabic Numerals Diver's Watch - Matt Black Dial - Rubberised Calf Leather Strap
Super Squale Arabic Numerals Diver's Watch - Matt Blue Dial - Rubberised Calf Leather Strap
Although it isn’t that widely known, Squale (which is pronounced “Skwarl”, not “Skwarlay” as you might often hear), has been around for a long time and has played quite a significant role in the watch industry as a case supplier.
In 1950, Charles and Helene Von Buren established the Von Büren SA watch factory in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. Back then, dive watches as we know them today did not exist. It would not be until 1953 that the first “modern” dive watch hit the market. Despite this, the Von Burens, both passionate divers, decided to focus their attention on the emerging market and began researching sub-aquatic instruments.
Nine years later in 1959, the Squale trademark was registered by Von Buren, but was not, at that time at least, intended to be a standalone brand. Initially, Von Buren made highly respected and patented water-resistant housings for other brands, marked with a small shark (the brand’s obvious logo due to Squale being French for shark).
Super Squale Diver's Watch - Sunray Black Dial - Credit WatchGecko
In ‘62, the Squale name appeared on a dial for the first time. The Sub-39 model was also designed at this time and remains in the collection to this day, albeit updated. Aesthetically, the current model that perhaps best recalls the early days of the brand’s eponymous watch line is reference SUPERSSBK.PN, which, when paired with a black rubber tropic strap, would look very similar indeed to Squale’s initial output under its own name.
Three years after Squale’s inaugural release, the brand achieved recognition when one of its watches was worn on the wrist of Enzo Maiorca, an Italian freediver, who set the world record in 1965 for a descent of 67 metres.
During the following decade, Squale became the official timepiece supplier of the Italian Navy and for the “Folgore” Paratroopers Brigade.
Super Squale Diver's Watch - Sunray Grey Dial - Credit WatchGecko
Super Squale Arabic Numerals Diver's Watch - Matt Black Dial - Rubberised Calf Leather Strap
As Charles Von Buren prepared for retirement in the early ‘80s, his and his wife’s closeness with the Maggi family, which had, up until that point, handled distribution of the brand in Italy, encouraged him to sell his family business to the Maggis, setting it up for its next phase of evolution that he was happy to watch unfold from afar.
The brand continued to release new watches throughout the 1980s but then experienced a more dormant period, which culminated in a relaunch of the brand in 2005. To mark the return of Squale to the mainstream market, the Maggis drew inspiration from the original models that had garnered so much success the first time around. The renewed interest in mechanical watchmaking and the fervent interest in true “heritage” brands (especially those presented at an affordable price), propelled Squale back into the collective consciousness.
Subsequent releases throughout the 2000s and the 2010s underpinned the brand’s intent to once again become a leader in the dive watch space. This push for recognition resulted in a new partnership with the Italian State Police Divers Unit, with a special edition of the 2002 model being unveiled in 2017. This model would subsequently become available to the public, deepening the connection between the brand’s promotional and commercial activities to great effect.
Super Squale Diver's Watch - Sunray Grey Dial - Credit WatchGecko
In 2023, the brand has eight model families within its portfolio. Each line offers a slightly different take on the classic model format, with the most radical addition being the T-183 series, which utilises non-standard materials such as forged carbon and fibreglass for an ultra-modern look that still stands out.
However, it is the Super Squale range that, in my opinion, marries the best of both worlds. The styling is extremely close to the original models from the early ‘60s but the execution is far superior. The case diameter of these pieces is a relatively diminutive 38 mm but the water resistance is now 200 meters as opposed to the lower depth ratings of its forerunners.
At just 12 mm thick the pieces in this collection are by no means bulky for dress watches and their compact 45 mm lug-to-lug length means they can be worn on a variety of wrist sizes and shapes. A common 18 mm lug distance is handy for flipping these watches between straps, which is advisable given their relatively neutral colour palettes.
Super Squale Diver's Watch - Credit WatchGecko
Within the Super Squale collection, there are two main watch head styles of which to be aware. They are the Super Squale Arabic Numerals model and the Super Squale Sunray model. As you might expect, the former features Arabic numerals at the four cardinal points, and stick indices for the intervening numbers for a slightly more modern look. The Sunray versions, however, use nicely finished triangular markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9, with simple round dots for 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10, and 11. The latter’s style is a nod to the brand’s debut models and, for that reason (as well as my personal tastes leaning more towards true tool watches), I prefer it.
Both watch head types come in multiple variations with multiple strap options. The watches signed with Arabic numerals can be had with either a black or a blue dial. The Sunray models boast three dial variations. Black, grey, or (a very vintage) brown display are the options. Both watch heads are delivered on either a stainless steel beads of rice bracelet or a colour-matched leather strap that complements the dial and inspiring era of each watch (the Sunray models have rougher, aged leather straps while the slicker Arabic models come on a more traditional calfskin).
But the best thing about these watches (especially those with more neutrally coloured dials like the blacks and the grey) is how versatile they are. Multiple straps (in fact, almost any 18 mm strap) would look good when worn with these well-made and well-priced core collection pieces from Squale.
