Seiko are having a serious rummage through their archives of late. Not all that long ago they relaunched their Landmaster watch, a mountaineer’s diver from the 1970’s as well as a solar-powered chronograph from the 1990’s. Now, they’re back with yet another historical model, this one from 1968: the Seiko Navigator Timer.
Seiko Prospex ‘Navigator Timer’ SPB411J1 Limited Edition - Credit Seiko
The Seiko Navigator Timer was the Japanese watchmaker’s first GMT watch to feature a rotating bezel. Like the new SPB411J1 model, it had a barrel-shaped case with a rotating 24-hour bezel and a grey legible dial. I try not to call modern editions “reinterpretations” unless they’re as accurate as can be, but in Seiko’s defence for this occasion, they’ve done a pretty good job at reviving the 1960’s forerunner in the new Seiko Prospex ‘Navigator Timer’.
Seiko Prospex ‘Navigator Timer’ SPB411J1 Limited Edition - Credit Seiko
For starters, Seiko has respected the dimensions and shape of the original. The cushion-shaped case measures to 38.5mm wide with a thickness of 12.6mm. There’s the same rotating bezel with a black engraved 24 hour scale and a luminous pip at 12 o’clock. The case back layout also mimics the look of its original inspiration, and the dial is kept simple with a brushed grey surface, blocky metal indexes and a bright red GMT hand.
Seiko Prospex ‘Navigator Timer’ SPB411J1 Limited Edition - Credit Seiko
There are several contemporary additions to the design but thankfully it’s nothing that takes away any of the vintage charm. The stainless steel case is brushed and now protected by a super-hard coating. Extra scratch resistance is assured thanks to the box-shaped sapphire crystal and the screw in crown and screwed down case back ensure a 100 metre water resistance. The most noticeable difference is that of the dial, which no longer has the “Navigator Time” name at 6 o’clock. It would have been a nice addition to say the least.
Seiko Prospex ‘Navigator Timer’ SPB411J1 Limited Edition - Credit Seiko
Housed inside the Seiko Prospex ‘Navigator Timer’ SPB411J1 watch is the automatic winding Calibre 6R54 movement. It’s an office GMT movement where the 24-hour hand is adjusted independently and delivers a frequency of 21,600vph and a power reserve of 72 hours. The limited edition is completed by a faithful 1960’s-inspired five-row link stainless steel bracelet and a three-fold clasp with push button release.
Seiko Prospex ‘Navigator Timer’ SPB411J1 Limited Edition - Credit Seiko
Priced at £1,500, it’s only a small jump from the £1,400 retail price of standard Prospex GMT watches, and in my opinion it’s worth paying that little bit more for a collectible limited edition. That said, the production of 4,000 pieces does make it less limited than I’d like, diminishing its rarity rather significantly. However, it’s affordability and faithfulness to the original 1968 Navigator Timer does still make this a great watch.
The Seiko Prospex ‘Navigator Timer’ SPB411J1 will be available from November 2023.
Technical Specifications
- Brand: Seiko
- Model: Prospex ‘Navigator Timer’ SPB411J1
- Price: £1,500
- Material: Stainless steel with super-hard coating
- Movement: Calibre 6R54 automatic winding
- Complications: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT
- Dial: Brushed grey with Lumibrite on hands and indexes
- Size: 38.5mm wide, 12.6mm tall
- When the reviewer would personally wear it: It’s a GMT watch, so whenever I was travelling! It’s a nice size and shape and with it being a Seiko, I know it’ll live up to any challenging adventures I might choose to go on.
- A friend we’d recommend it to first: A seasoned Seiko collector that appreciates faithful recreations.
- Best characteristics of the watch: The faithful dimensions and dial.
- The worst characteristics of the watch: The 4,000-piece limited edition run. It takes away some of the exclusivity of owning one.
