Rising to a staggering 8,516 meters (27,940 feet), Mount Lhotse is the fourth-highest mountain in the world. Located right next to Mount Everest, it shares much of Everest’s route and base camp, yet it retains its own distinct identity, often overlooked by climbers and tourists alike.
Geography and Setting
Lhotse lies along the border of Nepal and the Tibet Autonomous Region of China. It is part of the Everest massif, connected to Everest via the South Col. Despite its great height, its prominence is just 610 meters because of its close geographical link to Everest. Lhotse comprises three summits:
- Lhotse Main (8,516 m)
- Lhotse Middle (8,414 m)
- Lhotse Shar (8,383 m)
Each peak has its own challenges and was summited at different points in history, with Lhotse Middle being one of the last unclimbed named peaks over 8,000 meters until 2001.
Climbing History
Lhotse’s first known attempt was in 1955 by a Swiss expedition. The first successful ascent was on May 18, 1956, by Swiss climbers Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss. Significant milestones include:
- First ascent of Lhotse Shar in 1970 by an Austrian team.
- First ascent of Lhotse Middle in 2001 by a Russian team.
- First winter ascent in 1988 by Polish climber Krzysztof Wielicki.
The mountain has also seen tragic losses, including the death of renowned climber Jerzy Kukuczka on the South Face in 1989.
Routes and the Lhotse Face
The most famous feature of the mountain is the Lhotse Face, a massive wall of glacial ice about 1,125 meters high with slopes ranging from 40 to 55 degrees. Climbers use fixed ropes to navigate this challenging section. The standard route diverges from the Everest path at the Yellow Band and follows the steep Reiss couloir to the summit. The South Face of Lhotse, known for its technical difficulty and risk, is one of the most dangerous routes in the Himalayas.
Climbing Conditions and Seasons
The best seasons to climb Lhotse are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to October). Outside these windows, climbers face extreme cold (as low as –60°C), avalanches, and unstable weather.
Climbing Stats and Facts
- Over 1,000 successful summits have been recorded.
- The main peak has seen around 22 fatalities, with Lhotse Shar contributing to at least 10 more.
- Many climbers summit Everest and Lhotse in the same expedition due to their shared approach.
Climbing Route Overview
- Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla.
- Trek through Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Dingboche, and Gorakshep.
- Reach Everest Base Camp ~5,364m.
- Establish Camps I–IV along the Khumbu Icefall and Lhotse Face.
- Final push through the Reiss couloir to the summit.
The entire expedition typically lasts 6 to 8 weeks, including acclimatisation and waiting for a safe weather window.
Why Choose Lhotse?
- Fewer climbers than Everest, offering a quieter experience.
- Technically demanding and rewarding for skilled mountaineers.
- Unique beauty and geological importance.
Notable Achievements
- First oxygen-free female ascent by Soňa Vomáčková in 1999.
- Speed record set by Mingma Dorchi in 2019, climbing both Everest and Lhotse in just over six hours.
- Winter ascent achieved in 1988 by Krzysztof Wielicki
Cultural and Environmental Significance
Lhotse lies within Nepal’s Sagarmatha National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site rich in biodiversity and Sherpa culture. The mountain continues to grow due to tectonic activity, reminding us of Earth’s dynamic nature.
Conclusion
Mount Lhotse stands as more than Everest’s neighbour. It is a peak of its own legend - challenging, majestic, and deeply rewarding for those who dare to climb it. Its steep faces, dramatic history, and remote quietness make it a true giant of the Himalayas.
