Led by IWC, ceramic watches first started gaining traction in the 1980s. However, they didn’t gain major popularity until fairly recently. These days, ceramic is widely used by many brands for components like dive bezels and dials, but some do take it further, crafting entire cases and bracelets out of ceramic.
As with any innovative or unconventional material, ceramic doesn’t come cheap. The new IWC Ingenieur 42 Ceramic is priced at £16,800, while a ceramic Girard-Perregaux Laureato will set you back £20,300. And if you're dreaming of a ceramic Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet—well, unless your name happens to be John Sheeran, forget about buying one directly from AP. On the secondary market, the grand complication minute repeater perpetual calendar chronograph can go for anywhere from £40,000 to over £1 million. Basically, if it’s ceramic you want, you should be prepared to fork out.
Formex Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC “GT” 41mm
That is, until now—thanks to a new release from Formex: the Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC “GT” 41mm (and yes, that is the full name).
The ceramic case and bracelet were developed in collaboration with Dexel. Don’t worry if the name doesn’t ring a bell—I hadn’t heard of them either. What you should know is that Dexel brings over 40 years of experience producing top-tier ceramic components, having worked with heavyweights like Girard-Perregaux and Hublot. The finishing on both the case and bracelet is superb, and despite the black colour, the surfaces reflect and catch the light beautifully.
The watch wears smaller than the 41mm case size might suggest. That’s likely due to the short 46.4mm lug-to-lug distance, and the dark ceramic colour helping it appear more compact. It fits me perfectly and would suit smaller wrists just as well.
The bracelet is impressively comfortable. It doesn’t pull on hair, feels silky smooth, and thanks to the patented micro-adjustment system—which, by the way, is the first ceramic clasp with this feature—it’s easy to dial in the perfect fit. Formex even adjusts the bracelet to your wrist size when you order, so it’s ready to go right out of the box.
The quick-release system is equally well done. I had it off and back on in five seconds flat—which is handy, because this piece would look phenomenal on a rubber strap.
My only small gripe with the case and bracelet—and it’s more of a general issue with black ceramic than this watch in particular—is that they tend to pick up fingerprints pretty easily. Especially on a hot, sticky day like it happened to be whilst I was wearing it.
Like other Essence models from Formex, this watch features the brand’s patented Case Suspension System. I’m not entirely convinced about how much impact it actually absorbs, but I’ll leave that to the engineers. What I can say is that it makes for an incredibly comfortable wearing experience, especially since the case subtly moves with your wrist. Also, it’s weirdly satisfying to play with when the watch is off!
Powering the watch is the COSC-certified Sellita SW200-1 SC, and each piece comes with its own set of test results—a kind of graduation certificate from watch school, which is a nice touch. The skeletonised movement is beautifully finished with contrasting brushing and polishing. I really enjoyed watching the balance wheel and escapement ticking away while the watch was on my wrist. The custom skeleton rotor suits the movement perfectly and is visible through the sapphire exhibition case back.
Now, I’ll save my full thoughts on skeleton dials for another time, because generally, I’m not a fan. But in this case, I think it works brilliantly. The intricate dial contrasts nicely with the ultra-smooth ceramic, and I appreciate that Formex didn’t clutter the crystal with branding like some others do. Legibility is surprisingly solid too, thanks to the gold-tone indices and generous lume plots. Speaking of which, the lume is Grade A Super-LumiNova—and it glows bright. Honestly, I found it easier to read the time in the dark than in daylight.
As I write this, George Russell has just shown off his Mercedes AMG Project 1 while wearing a Miami Blue-dial IWC Ingenieur 42 Ceramic with a ‘Miami Blue’ dial, courtesy of Bamford Watch Department. And while the car was impressive, it was the watch that caught most of our attention. That got me thinking—this Formex would look incredible with some of the vibrant dial colours from the wider Essence range. I’m picturing ‘Space Glacier’ or ‘Malachite’ in particular. So, if anyone at Formex is reading this and wants to run with the idea—go ahead. I’d be honoured.
Final Thoughts
The reason for this watch’s existence still leaves me a little puzzled. Most of Formex’s lineup is all about purpose—rugged, legible, and ready for anything. And while this piece shares some of those traits, the ceramic case puts it in a different league. The “GT” and “Stradale” names nod to the automotive world, but beyond that, the motorsport link feels a bit thin. Then again, maybe something that’s cool, well-made, and boundary-pushing doesn’t need a deeper reason to exist.
And just to be clear, I’m very glad it does. This is a high-quality, accurate, and striking ceramic watch that’s genuinely exciting—and you don’t have to remortgage your house to afford it. There’s nothing else quite like it at this price point, and I really hope Formex continues to expand and experiment with this line. (Especially if they take me up on those dial colour suggestions!)
Technical Specifications
- Brand: Formex
- Model: Essence Ceramica
- Reference Number: 0336.9.6051.410 ("GT"); 0336.9.6011.410 ("Stradale"); 0336.9.6027.410 ("Stradale Viola"); 0336.9.6023.410 ("Stradale Blue")
- Diameter: 41mm
- Thickness: 11.2mm
- Case Material: Black Zirconium Oxide Ceramic
- Dial Color: Skeletonized
- Indexes: Applied
- Lume: Super-LumiNova
- Water Resistance: 100m
- Strap/Bracelet: Ceramic bracelet with ceramic clasp and quick adjust system.
- Caliber: SW200-1 Skeletonized
- Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
- Power Reserve: 41 hours
- Winding: Automatic
- Frequency: 4 Hz
- Jewels: 26
- Chronometer Certified: Yes, COSC certified.
