Baltic have been around for a while now, but somehow, they are a watch brand I’ve had very little hands-on time with. Their Aquascaphe Diver is one of their best known models; it’s a retro-inspired dive watch with purposeful old-school stylings and a compact size case. It’s a great example of a solid and accessible offering in the microbrand space.
Baltic MR01 - Credit WatchGecko
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Over the last few years, Baltic has expanded their collection even further to include designs like their Tricompax Chronograph, the dressy HMS line and their more recent, and already very popular, Hermétique range. All of these designs have one thing in common: they are vintage in personality but modern in their specs.
If you’re like me and you have a penchant for affordable mechanical watches with a retro-cool aesthetic, then Baltic is a great place to start. Of all their models, there’s a set few that I’ve been quite desperate to get my hands on, one of them being the MR01.
Baltic MR01 Blue - Credit Guest Author
The Baltic MR01 collection has been around for a couple of years, and I know I’m not the only one that considers it one of the best-looking, accessible dress watch line-ups on the market. They have an almost effortless look to them, as if there’s very little going on, when in fact the detailing is pretty significant when you get up close. They have Breguet-styled numerals, off centred small seconds and a rather distinctive feature in the form of the micro-rotor calibre.
So, it was an easy yes when I was asked if I wanted to review one of the Baltic MR01 models, in particular, the MR01 Blue. This is the design with a deep navy blue dial and a brown calfskin leather strap.
The Case
Baltic MR01 Blue - Credit Guest Author
I truly believe 36mm is the ideal case size of a watch of this style, and the Baltic MR01 Blue proves me right. It has a 36mm wide profile with short angled-down lugs and a really impressive thickness of just 9.9mm tall – and that’s even including the domed hesalite glass on top. The case is machined from 316L stainless steel with fairly basic finishing. The lugs, bezel and case back are brightly polished while the sides have vertical brushing.
One of the most distinguishing features of the Baltic MR01’s case is the brightly polished bezel. It’s completely flat and rather broad for a dress watch. It’s a design feature that brings a lot of retro personality to the watch and allows the compact case size to pack more of a punch than you’d expect. It does also mean the case feels a little larger than 36mm wide, but not in a bad way.
The Dial
Baltic MR01 Blue - Credit WatchGecko
- Regular price
- £68.00
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- Sale price
- £68.00
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- per
- Regular price
- £68.00
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- £68.00
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- Regular price
- £68.00
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- Sale price
- £68.00
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It seems that while the execution of the case is kept relatively simple, most of the attention to detail was left for dial. The MR01 watches come with wonderfully grained dials in salmon, silver, black or in this instance, navy blue. The textured finish plays off the azurage pattern of the small seconds in a really interesting way and contrasts against the smooth, brightly polished finishing of the silvered hardware.
The railway minutes track is ever-so-slightly raised and adorned with white printing to match that of small seconds. The numerals are undeniably retro in Breguet style and pair with leaf-shaped hands for the hours and minutes. The overall look and layout reminds me a little of designs like the A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 and the Vacheron Constantine American 1921. But at just €545 (excluding taxes), the price of the MR01 is a far throw from these similarly styled, luxury alternatives.
The Movement
Baltic MR01 Blue - Credit WatchGecko
One of the most surprisingly elements of the Baltic MR01 Blue watch is the movement. It utilises a micro-rotor calibre which means that rather than using a large oscillating rotor placed on top of the movement, it incorporates a smaller rotor into the calibre itself. It not only looks incredibly cool when you can view it through the exhibition case back, but it also helps to keep the movement and thus the case nice and thin.
The exact movement in question is the automatic winding micro-rotor CAL5000a calibre made by Hangzho. As mentioned, the movement can be watched through the glass case back and since the micro-rotor is cleverly placed on the same level as the rest of the components, you can admire more of the jewels, gears and finishings than you can in a normal automatic winding movement.
The micro-rotor is finished in gold and sits beside multiple plates and bridges decorated in radial graining. It’s really nice to be able to see the exposed balance beating away in the corner too. It’s one of the best-looking movements I’ve ever seen in a watch less than €600. We are also promised a 42 hour power reserve.
Baltic MR01 Blue - Credit Guest Author
The Strap
The Baltic MR01 Blue watch is finished on a brown calfskin leather strap with simple white stitching and a brushed stainless steel pin buckle engraved with the Baltic logo. It’s a comfortable, lightweight and remarkably thin strap that suits the overall design of the MR01 well. You can also order the Baltic MR01 Blue watch on a beads-of-rice or flat-link stainless steel bracelet. The lugs do have drilled holes so swapping out the straps is made nice and easy.
Price & Availability
Baltic MR01 Blue - Credit Guest Author
This is one of the best looking, best executed dress watches I’ve seen for a long time, and I am still questioning quite how Baltic have managed to create a watch of such quality for such a low price. Great attention has been paid to the dial and movement, and I think that’s where the Baltic MR01 Blue watch deserves the most praise.
All in all, it’s an easy-to-wear and fantastically affordable design that would be perfect for anyone in the market looking for that premium vintage-inspired dress watch look. It’s a non-limited edition and currently a mainstay in Baltic’s MR01 collection for €545 (taxes excluded).
