Oris roll out their new in house movement to a smaller 40mm new release...

Oris continue to rise to the top with the recent announcement of the calibre 401. For its first appearance, this sub-seconds equivalent of their new calibre 400 is fitted in a new Carl Brashear edition that is just 40mm wide. Initially launched in the Aquis Date measuring 43.5mm wide, the new Calibre 400 from Oris is mightily impressive. With a 5-day power reserve, increased anti-magnetic properties, an accuracy within COSC and both a 10-year warranty and 10-year service recommendation this newly developed in house movement is no joke.

Oris Carl Brashear Calibre 401 Limited Edition - Image Credit: Oris

Oris shared the news that a new Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition was being released measuring just 40mm wide and with a sub-seconds dial at 6 o'clock.

In 2015 Oris first began working with the Carl Brashear Foundation as part of their 'Change For Better' mission. This foundation is set up in memory of Mr Carl Brashear. “It’s not a sin to get knocked down. It’s a sin to stay down.” These are the words of Carl Brashear, one of the 20th century’s most enduring figures of triumph in adversity. Carl overcame numerous challenges, both on account of his background and later disability, to become the U.S. Navy’s first African American diver and first amputee Master Diver.

Carl Brashear - Image via Oris

This new Oris release is seen in bronze with a beautiful complimentary blue tone throughout. Not only does the movement set this watch apart, but the inclusion of a sub-seconds rather than a central seconds. Although this has been seen before on certain Aquis models in a slightly modern execution thanks to its unique 9 o clock positioning and sporty hand used. In this case, Oris has kept things extremely traditional with a less is more approach to the marking for the sub-dial, clean small seconds hand and text above and below to cushion it.

Oris Carl Brashear Calibre 401 Limited Edition - Image Credit: Oris


Case width: 40mm
Movement: Calibre 401 (Calibre 400 base)
Functions: Hour, minutes and seconds
Power reserve: 120 hours
Case: stainless steel
Water-resistance: 10 bar (100m)
Dial: Blue
Strap: Blue woven elastic nylon webbing strap with bronze buckle

Price: £3,350
Availability: Now via oris.ch

First thoughts

Oris Carl Brashear Calibre 401 Limited Edition - Image Credit: Oris

This is good news for all Oris fans. You don't need to love this watch specific watch to be excited with this news as it is the first release from Oris using their new in house movement that is sized around 40mm.

When the Calibre 400 news dropped in October, we asked Oris the smallest sized watch the new movement can fit to which they confirmed 38mm +. Well, true to their word a few months later we see it in a 40mm case. Oris have started with a limited edition watch here which I understand can split the watch community with some loving this approach and some hating it, but I find the bigger talking point here and the bigger news story is that already we’re starting to see new Oris models with the new in house movement in a case width that is closer to consumers expectations and wishes.

Oris Carl Brashear Calibre 401 Limited Edition - Image Credit: Oris

The watch actually caught me off guard. I wasn’t expecting to see a sub-seconds release like this from Oris but it does offer an extremely compelling, unique aesthetic. Priced at £3,350 the proof on whether this will be a success will be in the orders. This increased price point may be a bitter pill to swallow for Oris fans who have been used to their £1,000 - £2,000 price point but it is looking like something we should begin to expect more of from the brand.

Stay tuned to the WatchGecko Online Magazine over the coming weeks as we’re going to be releasing a story which compares the new Oris Calibre 400 to a Tudor Black Bay to see if this increase in price point holds up against some stiff competition…

To find out more about the new Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition, click here.