As watch collectors, we're always on the hunt for that all-rounder—the piece that looks just as sharp under a dinner jacket as it does while you're taking the bins out in joggers.
The challenge? Many watches are built with a specific context in mind, and they often struggle outside of it. Your elegant Patek Philippe Calatrava might raise eyebrows at the start line of a half marathon, while a hefty Rolex Deepsea could bulge awkwardly beneath the cuff of formalwear.
Enter Hegid; a French Maison tackling this versatility issue head-on. Combining in-house design with Swiss watchmaking precision, they've engineered a modular system that lets you change your watch case without the need for tools.
Is this the ultimate solution to every collector’s dilemma or just an expensive fidget toy? Let’s find out…
Hegid Watch Review -
Hegid’s entire concept can be encapsulated with just one word: customisation. The premise is that you buy a ‘Capsule’ (a movement, dial and crystals) in one unit. The outer cases can be bought separately enabling the user to change the entire design of the watch with just a twist of the case back.
The system works by utilising a sliding lock within the capsule that connects it to the outer case. It’s called the EVOL system, and the main locking wheel is made from titanium to give it a lightweight, smooth movement.
Each capsule is powered by the Hegid Specimen FE-01 Calibre, a movement based on Soprod design but manufactured in France. It’s an automatic calibre with a date complication and an impressive, claimed accuracy of -4/+6s per day.
I love when watch brands push boundaries and introduce fresh design ideas. Larger names like Rolex, Omega, and Patek Philippe are often locked into tradition and in other words bound by what their audiences expect and revere. Their days of bold experimentation feel long behind them.
That’s where independent brands like Hegid shine. They have the creative freedom and, in many ways, the necessity to innovate in order to stand out in an increasingly saturated and competitive market. This particular design is unlike anything I’ve seen before, and I have huge respect for any brand willing to take such bold risks in pursuit of something original.
Hegid offers a diverse range of case designs, some bold and original, others more traditional and familiar. The most unconventional of the lineup is the Expedition, with its rugged, blocky aesthetic that leans heavily into adventure-ready design.
We had two case models in the office: the Laboratoire and the Mirage. Between the two, I personally preferred the more distinctive styling of the Mirage. That said, the classic dial capsules we tested didn’t pair quite as seamlessly with the modern, angular cases. I imagine some of Hegid’s other dial options would create a more cohesive and visually striking match.
One gripe of mine is the dial. While the shade of green used here is nice, personally I find the sunburst effect a little on the intense side. Who knows – it might even be more comfortable to look into the sun!
I find the sunburst effect is too extreme with the alternating darker and lighter sections. The Pearl dial on the other hand feels much more straightforward and classic, reminding me a lot of the dial on my Air King. That could be why I gravitated more towards that one, but that said, it’s all a matter of taste.
Part of what draws me to a watch is its sense of purpose and personality. Take my IWC Mark XX for example, it's built with intent and has a distinct design DNA that gives it character. That’s what creates an emotional connection for me. With modular watches like this, that identity can feel diluted. The ability to alter the look at the twist of a lock means the watch lacks a fixed personality and for me, that lessens the emotional pull that makes a watch truly special, especially when you’re spending serious money.
Which brings me to my biggest issue with this product: the price.
For the cost of one of these pieces, without any additional cases, straps, or accessories, you could build a solid three-watch collection from well-regarded microbrands, each with its own identity and purpose. And given that collectors often enjoy variety and storytelling in their pieces, I can’t help but feel most would choose that route over a single, shape-shifting watch.
The concept behind this watch is genuinely brilliant. I’d love to see more brands give customers greater control over the way their watch looks—and Hegid executes that idea well. The EVOL system, paired with high-spec movements and quality cases feels refined and thoughtful.
However, this level of innovation comes at a premium. And when you’re spending this kind of money, most collectors want more than just functionality—they want a watch that creates an emotional connection. For me, that connection just wasn’t there. That said, I can absolutely see someone with a more technically focused mindset falling in love with the versatility and engineering on display here.
I also admire the brand’s commitment to local manufacturing. A significant portion of the watch is produced in France, which adds value and helps justify the price in my mind. There’s clearly been a great deal of thought put into both the design and technical execution of the EVOL system—making it an impressive piece, even if it’s not for everyone.
At the end of the day, if we all liked the same things, the watch world—and life—would be a lot less interesting. Disagree? That’s the beauty of it. The comments are open, and I’d love to hear your take.
