Since its founding in 2016, CIGA design has consistently challenged the conventions of traditional watchmaking - boldly reimagining what a timepiece can be. Nearly a decade later, the brand continues to innovate, building on its original design philosophy.
For its latest release, CIGA design has partnered with Label Noir - an esteemed atelier renowned for decades of experience customizing some of the world’s most iconic watches.
Following the success of the Blue Planet II in 2021, this new collaboration ventures off planet - launching a visionary new design: the Black Star.
CIGA design x Label Noir Black Star
Zhang Jianmin, the founder and president of CIGA, has been the driving force behind the innovative design that has defined the brand. The Blue Planet was the timepiece that truly propelled CIGA design into the global spotlight. Its innovative design and engineering captivated the watchmaking world - and even drew the attention of the Swiss horological community. In 2021, the second-generation Blue Planet earned international acclaim, winning the prestigious GPHG Challenge Watch Prize.
The Black Star is powered by the Swiss-made CD-04-S - an evolution of the calibre first seen in the Blue Planet. It incorporates CIGA design’s proprietary Asynchronous Flow Technology, which enhances timekeeping accuracy. Unlike traditional hands, the movement drives large rotating disks, requiring significantly more torque - an impressive feat of mechanical engineering.
Time is displayed in a truly innovative way. The central disk rotates 30° each hour, aligning with fixed hour indices, while the surrounding minute track rotates 390°. At the start of each new hour, the “00” minute marker passes the hour index - an elegant and intuitive system once you understand it. Reading the time is still a bit of a challenge, as the numerals are very small and occupy only a small area.
The case is crafted from Grade 2 titanium and finished with a sleek Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC) coating, evoking the darkness and mystery of deep space. The finishing is exceptionally smooth, further amplifying the celestial aesthetic.
A large domed sapphire crystal - treated with an anti-reflective coating - ensures that the intricate design beneath is always visible and well-protected against scratches.
Each watch is presented in a distinctive book-style box made from recycled materials and decorated with pictures of the universe. Sustainable and stylish, the packaging became an instant talking point around the office.
The central disk is richly decorated with star patterns and cosmic blue dust, all spiralling around the “black star” at its centre. This core is painted with an ultra-light-absorbing Super Black pigment - capable of absorbing over 99% of visible light - creating the illusion of a miniature black hole at the heart of the dial. It's a powerful design choice that adds depth and drama.
Time is indicated by a bright, lume-filled polar star positioned on the edge of the rotating disk, serving as the hour hand. The celestial theme ties beautifully into the fundamental connection between time and space - making the watch feel both poetic and precise. While cosmic inspiration may seem like a natural fit for horology, few watches explore it as effectively as this one.
On the reverse, an exhibition case back provides a clear view of the movement. Though undecorated, it’s well finished and offers practical function as well letting you confirm the watch is running, since there’s no seconds indicator. It also serves as a visual counterbalance to the large domed crystal on the front, completing the watch’s thoughtful symmetry.
Despite the 46mm case size, the Black Star wears much smaller than expected. Its fully circular design means the lug-to-lug measurement is also 46mm, allowing it to sit comfortably on a wide range of wrist sizes. While the watch does sit comfortably on the wrist, I personally find the case shape less appealing. Rather than wrapping naturally around the wrist like more traditional designs, it feels as though it’s floating just above it. That may not bother everyone, but for me, it slightly detracts from the overall wearing experience.
While the 15.6mm thickness might seem daunting—over a millimetre taller than the famously chunky IWC Pilot’s Chronograph - it’s largely due to the expansive domed crystal. Combined with the saucer-shaped case and lack of flat edges, the result is a surprisingly sleek and balanced profile on the wrist.
The crown is discreetly integrated into the case design yet remains easy to operate. Even with the large disks, setting the time feels smooth and precise. Personally, I’d prefer a slightly larger crown for quicker adjustment, but this one does the job well - and visually, it keeps the overall silhouette clean. Watching the disks rotate as you set the time is unexpectedly satisfying, offering a rare moment where their motion becomes visible.
The included rubber strap is exceptionally comfortable and embossed with both the CIGA design and Label Noir logos - subtle but thoughtful details that extend the design language beyond the case itself. Hidden beneath the UFO-like housing is a standard lug setup, making strap changes simple and compatible with a wide range of alternatives.
The deployant clasp is another highlight. It’s branded with the CIGA design logo and allows you to maintain your ideal strap fit each time you wear the watch - adding convenience and longevity to everyday use.
Personally, I’d love to see this piece paired with one of our classic leather Highley straps. The contrast between vintage craftsmanship and futuristic form would make for a compelling and stylish juxtaposition.
The CIGA design x Label Noir Black Star is priced at $1,980, a fair price in its own right. However, it’s worth noting that this places it over $800 above the Blue Planet II. And at first glance, the premium is difficult to justify. Both models feature titanium cases and Swiss movements, yet the Blue Planet includes a CNC-machined dial, whereas the Black Star relies on a painted finish.
Overall, I’m impressed by the Black Star. Its design is bold, original, and beautifully executed. Despite the substantial case diameter, it wears comfortably - far more so than you’d expect at first glance. And at under $2,000, it’s genuinely difficult to find a watch from another brand that is this distinctive that also delivers such a strong sense of innovation.
If you’re in the market for a timepiece that’s an instant conversation starter - without straying into impractical luxury - the Black Star absolutely deserves your attention.
Have you come across CIGA design before? And could you see yourself wearing the universe on your wrist? Let me know in the comments!
More information can be found on CIGA design's website or through their Amazon store.
