It seems like every watch brand has taken a shot at the dive watch formula. The combination of rugged functionality and timeless design has made divers one of the most enduring and popular watch categories since their emergence in the 1950s. But with so many options out there, the dive watch market today is as saturated as a sponge in treacle. Standing out takes something special.
Enter Serica, a young brand founded in 2019. Known for blending classic aesthetics with high-spec performance, Serica has carved a niche for itself in the indie space.
Their latest release was created in collaboration with the Amicale des Plongeurs Démineurs (Mine Clearance Divers Association) and is designed for a very real and dangerous job: removing unexploded ordnance from French waters. The limited edition Serica 5303 PLD isn’t just a tool watch. It’s a professional instrument built with purpose—and that alone makes it fascinating.
The case size is what many of us consider the sweet spot at 39mm. I love the way it wears and how the lugs slope down and over you wrist. The crown is incredibly easy to use and perfectly sized and is reminiscent of its vintage inspiration, reminding me very much of the 6538 “Big Crown” Submariner in its design and proportions.
One standout technical feature: the watch and movement are engineered to produce no magnetic signature, a crucial safety consideration when working around explosive materials. That level of thoughtful design makes this feel like a serious piece of kit.
The Abyssal Blue ceramic bezel insert is stunning—rich, deep, and contrasted elegantly by the aluminium inner ring. Compared to my own Tudor Black Bay 58 Navy Blue, the PLD’s blue is noticeably darker, and the ceramic gives it far more depth than aluminium ever could. It’s a bezel that will keep its brilliance for years to come.
The bezel action itself is smooth and satisfyingly firm. Though, when mounted on the flexible fabric strap, rotating the bezel can cause the case to shift slightly. Not a flaw, just an observation.
Instead of the standard 60-minute scale, the PLD features a DT Max scale, displaying the maximum safe dive times at different depths. At 25 meters, for example, you’ve got about 20 minutes before needing to surface without a decompression stop. It’s a unique and functional feature, especially if defusing bombs happens to be on your to-do list…
The elastic strap is extremely comfortable, adapting well to wrist expansion during pressure changes underwater. I did find the fastening mechanism a bit tricky at first, but once on, it’s secure and effortless. The logo on the clasp is a subtle but well-executed detail that complements the overall design.
I’m less enamoured with the mesh bracelet option, but that boils down to personal preference—others may love it. But, the good news is, the PLD is a strap monster. We tried it on several of our Octopod designs, and it passed the test every time.
The lume is a soft cream tone—more “vintage warmth” than faux patina. It balances beautifully against the clean white dial text and pitch-black background. The minimalist branding—just the Serica name at 6 o’clock in small type—feels confident and quietly distinctive. It’s as if the watch says,“You’ll know who made me.”
The handset is perfectly proportioned, especially with the addition of the new ‘Fat Lollipop’ seconds hand. The designs aid the legibility and make it easy to distinguish between the three of them at a glance. I’m especially a fan of the broad arrow hour hand, it’s distinctively Serica and that’s something I love.
Here’s the bad news: all 500 pieces of the PLD have already been spoken for via pre-order. And that’s a real shame because this is one of the most exciting dive watches I’ve handled this year so far. For less than half the price of my Tudor BB58, you're getting a professional-grade dive watch that blends vintage soul with modern execution—and does it incredibly well.
I feel genuinely lucky to have spent time with this piece. If you’re as captivated by the 5303 PLD as I am, let me know in the comments. And maybe, just maybe, we can convince Serica to run another batch—or create an equally exciting next chapter.
Serica 5303 PLD
Technical Specifications
- Model: Serica 5303 PLD Edition
- Case: 39mm diameter x 12.2mm thickness, stainless steel, satin-polished, 8mm oversized crown, Abyssal Blue ceramic bezel
- Dial: Black enamel with 'Chronomètre Amagnétique' inscription, domed luminous indexes
- Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
- Movement: Serica calibre M100, automatic, COSC-certified
- Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
- Power reserve: 42h
- Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
- Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with additional nylon 'Serica PLD' strap
- Price: €1,690
