Jaeger LeCoultre prove to us all they're still one of the best watchmakers...
Although this year has been completely different, fortunately, watch brands are still releasing models. With Watches and Wonders Geneva now not exclusively in Geneva it’s become more ‘Watches and Wonders Web’. And I think JLC had one of the best selections of releases...
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar - Image Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre
The headline model of the new Master Control collection features a newly developed movement, Calibre 759, which combines a chronograph with a triple calendar display and a moon-phase. Brought together for the first time in a Jaeger-LeCoultre timepiece, this alliance of complications evokes the ancient links between watchmaking and astronomy. The new Calibre 759 features a column-wheel chronograph with a vertical clutch, a moon-phase indicator, and a 65-hour power reserve. With a balanced dial layout that combines the familiarity of two classical complications – a triple calendar and a bi-compax chronograph – Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designers have made the reading of the displays straightforward and intuitive, despite the complexity of the information shown.
Width: 40mm
Thickness: 12mm
Movement: Automatic Calibre 759
Functions: Hours/minutes, small seconds, calendar with date, day and month indications, moon phases, chronograph
Power reserve: 65 hours
Case: stainless steel or Le Grand Rose gold®, satin and polished finishes, sapphire crystal case-back
Water-resistance: 5 bar
Dial: silver sunray finish, applied indexes
Strap: Novonappa® calf or alligator
Reference: Q4138420 (stainless steel), Q4132520 (Le Grand Rose gold®)
Price: Steel - £12,900. Le Grand Rose gold - $26,000
This watch is beautiful. From the wonderfully balanced dial layout, to it’s timeless classic styling and the just sheer amount of complications. Seeing as this is the first time JLC has created this combination of complications, they really have knocked it out the park. I think the sizing of these watches is great as well. I’m not going to make out that this is a cheap watch. ‘A bargain everyone should buy!’ No, but for £12,900 that seems like an unbelievably good watch when compared to what other brands would charge for the same complications and execution of those complications.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar - Image Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre
In the 1940s and ’50s Jaeger-LeCoultre was renowned for its triple calendar moon-phase movements and the new Master Control Calendar brings that tradition into the 21st century.
The finely balanced classical layout of the dial is retained, with the dates marked around the periphery, indicated by a red-tipped hand, the days and months displayed in the upper part of the dial, and the moon-phase set within the small seconds subdial in the lower part. But there is a fresh new twist to the date display: as well as updating Calibre 866 with the same performance-enhancing improvements made to cal.899, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers have added a delightful new jumping complication.
Every month, the date hand makes a 90-degree leap from the 15th to the 16th, in order not to obscure the moon-phase display.
Width: 40mm
Thickness: 10.95mm
Movement: Automatic Calibre 866
Functions: hours/minutes, small seconds, day, jumping date, month, moon phases
Power reserve: 70 hours
Case: stainless steel or Le Grand Rose gold®, satin and polished finishes, sapphire crystal case-back
Water-resistance: 5 bar
Dial: silver sunray finish, applied indexes
Strap: Novonappa® calf or alligator
Reference: Q4148420 (stainless steel), Q4142520 (Le Grand Rose gold®)
Price: Steel - £9,800 in steel. Rose Gold £18,900
Once again, this is another stunning release. As someone who isn’t a big chronograph guy, this Master Control Calendar speaks to me a little more than the Chronograph Calendar. The sense of balance is increased thanks to the 3,9 & 12 numerals the moonphase within the seconds track is extremely elegant and considered. The date hand snapping from 15 to 16 over an increased distance to not get in the way of the moon phase is brilliant, very JLC. This truly is a stunning piece. I can’t wait to see this one in person.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date - Image Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre
With its cool, silvery-white colour palette, minimalistic design and refined details, the Master Control Date anchors the new collection. Thanks to its slim movement, Calibre 899, the 40mm steel case of the Master Control Date is just 8.78mm thick. A Jaeger-LeCoultre mainstay since its introduction fifteen years ago, Calibre 899 has been repeatedly updated to incorporate the latest performance-enhancing technology. Revised again for the new Master Control collection, the latest-generation Calibre 899 features a new escapement and pallets: reconstructed in a slightly modified shape, they are made of silicon to minimise friction and thus consume less energy.
Width: 40mm
Thickness: 8.7mm
Movement: Automatic Calibre 899
Functions: hours/minutes/seconds, date
Power reserve: 70 hours
Case: stainless steel, satin and polished finishes, sapphire crystal case-back
Water-resistance: 5 bar
Dial: silver sunray finish, applied indexes
Strap: Novonappa® calf
Reference: Q4018420
Price: £6,000
So far we’ve just looked at more complicated watches from JLC, but this new Master Control Date really shows that less can be more. This is how you create a watch to be sold. At 40mm wide with a thickness just less than 9mm, this is going to be a fantastic smart everyday watch. Expect to see this on the wrist of working professionals around the world as soon as possible.
Priced at £6,000 as well? That’s a great package.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication - Image Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre
Highlighting its expertise in chiming watches, Jaeger-LeCoultre reinterprets its Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication with a magnificent new design. This follows the introduction in 2019 of two minute repeaters – Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel with calibre 184 and Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle with self-winding calibre 950.
This masterpiece of mechanical engineering incorporates two of the most romantic yet technically challenging complications in horology – a minute repeater and a celestial vault. The complex mechanism is further elevated by an orbital flying tourbillon. This limited
edition of eight pieces each in rose gold and in white gold features a new aesthetic that reaffirms JaegerLeCoultre’s mastery of the artistic crafts.
Width: 45mm
Movement: Manual Calibre 945
Functions: hours/minutes, month, 24-hour indication, orbital flying tourbillon indicating the sidereal time, minute repeater with cathedral ‘crystal gongs’ soldered directly to the sapphire crystal, celestial disc with star chart indicating the constellations in the north hemisphere
Power reserve: 40 hours
Case: satin, micro-blasted and polished finishes, pink gold or white gold with bezel set with baguette cut diamonds (44 diamonds – 3.76 carats)
Water-resistance: 5 bar
Dial: black dial with golden laser welded structure (pink gold version) or blue dial with silvered laser welded structure (white gold version
Strap: Novonappa® calf
Reference: Q5262460 (pink gold version, limited to 8 pieces)
Q5263480 (white gold version, limited to 8 pieces)
This thing is bold, visually strong and technically beautiful. This is JLC flexing their watchmaking muscle on us all. Are we ever going to see one? Probably not. But just look at it.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One - Image Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre
With its elongated case – a design inspired by the very first Reverso Lady model of 1931 – and a row of grain-set diamonds defining the gadroons at the upper and lower edges of the case, Reverso One interprets femininity in classically refined style. Finely drawn lines define the four corners of the dial, where the light and airy Arabic numerals look almost as if they have been hand-sketched. For 2020, this beautifully understated composition receives a jolt of bold colour, with a vivid new Redwine dial.
Size: 40mm x 20mm
Thickness: 7.9mm
Movement: 657
Functions: Hours/minutes
Case: Stainless steel
Water-resistance: 3 bar
Diamonds: 27 diamonds – 0,3 ct
Dial: Red-wine guilloché lacquered dial
Reference: Q3288560
This dial is a beautiful colour with a wonderful tone to it. Sure the diamonds don’t really do too much for me, but it’s not aimed at me as a collector. Anything JLC does to continue the Reverso’s classic legacy I’m always happy to see.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic - Image Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s unique interpretation of the travel watch has been a feature of the Master Control collection since 1990, much appreciated by connoisseurs. Rather than indicating only the hour of a second time zone, the Geographic also has a 24-hour night/day indicator and, in an aperture at the bottom of the dial, displays the city name relating to the zone. This gives travellers the option of setting the second time by location, rather than needing to calculate the time difference. The dial adheres to the familiar Geographic layout, with time-zone displays balanced by a date subdial and a power reserve indicator, and heat-blued steel hands adding a pop of colour to enhance legibility.
Width: 40mm
Thickness: 10.96mm
Movement: Automatic Calibre 939
Functions: hours/minutes/seconds, date, second time zone, 24-hour display, 24 time zones, power reserve indication
Power reserve: 70 hours
Case: stainless steel or Le Grand Rose gold®, satin and polished finishes, sapphire crystal case-back
Water-resistance: 5 bar
Dial: silver sunray finish, applied indexes
Strap: Novonappa® calf or alligator
Reference: Q4128420 (stainless steel), Q4122520 (Le Grand Rose gold®)
Price: Steel - £9,700
The quirky brother of the previous Master Control’s for 2020 arrives. I’ll be honest, this one doesn’t tick as many boxes for me. However, displaying the cities name of the timezone the wearer is currently in is a neat addition. It’s a shame we cannot get hands-on time with these, as I’d love to experience this one.
Final thoughts
JLC has been busy, haven’t they? The Master Control received the most attention really bringing the range in line with its competitors. The range before this new generation felt a little un-inviting and plain. However with all their new movements and smart more conscious feeling design choices the range now massively appeals. Just as JLC should.
