Introducing the Praesidus DD-45 Dirty Dozen Homage Watch, a revival of one of the most iconic timepieces in history. Born out of the legendary field watches issued to troops during World War II, the Dirty Dozen holds a significant place in military horology. For those unfamiliar with these historic timepieces, you can have an in-depth read here into their fascinating backstory.
The Praesidus Story:
Praesidus, driven by a passion for preserving tales of courage and resilience, crafts military-inspired timepieces that honour the spirit of our brave soldiers. Through meticulous attention to detail and craftsmanship, Praesidus endeavours to ensure that the legacy of these heroes lives on for generations to come.
Praesidus A11 DD-45. Credit: Guest Author.
The DD-45 Narrative:
Originally commissioned by the British Military in the waning days of World War II, the Dirty Dozen project tasked twelve watch companies with producing approximately 145,000 field watches for the armed forces. Though delivered towards the end of the conflict, these watches gained fame following the release of the 1964 film "The Dirty Dozen" and have since become highly sought-after collectables.
The 12 brands were given strict guidelines and specifications from Document R.S./Prov/4373A, “Watches, Wristlet, Waterproof” (W.W.W.). The watches had to have the following features:
- ‘The watch shall be of the luminised wristlet type in a stainless steel or other approved metal waterproof case and shall be capable of withstanding tropical conditions.’
And for the movement to have the following:
- ‘non-magnetic lever type embodying not less than 15 jewels, fitted with an overcoil balance spring, and Incabloc or other approved shock-absorbing device
- The watch to be tested at 32°C in four specified positions.
- The daily rate of any two of the four positions not to exceed 40 seconds.
- Each watch to be engraved on both the outside and inside of the caseback with the letters WWW together with the code letter of the contractor, and the serial number of the case.
The 12 companies were: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor and Vertex.
Praesidus A11 DD-45. Credit: Guest Author.
A Sympathetic Homage from Praesidus:
Fast forward to 2024, and Praesidus unveils their tribute to the Dirty Dozen from the A11 range, with the DD-45, offered in three meticulously crafted versions: Factory Fresh, Patina, and Tropical.
Praesidus dedicated two years solely to perfecting the dials, aiming to capture the authentic patina found on the hands and indexes of 80-year-old originals. Their goal was to offer an authentic vintage feel that both looked and felt like the originals. One distinctive feature from Praesidus is the provision of three options, allowing customers to select the desired level of patina based on their model preference.
Praesidus A11 DD-45. Credit: Guest Author.
The dial design remains true to the original, presenting a clear and sterile aesthetic with the small seconds positioned at 6 o'clock. The obelisk hands are equipped with luminescent material to match the finish and harmonise seamlessly with those found on the IWC, Grana, Cyma, Timor, and Eterna versions.
The “Factory Fresh” DD-45 have been presented the same way they would have been when they were issued to the soldiers back in 1944. Box fresh, super clean white indices and hands with that tarmac-like textured dial we have seen before. All pristine, as if just issued.
Next, we have the “Patina” DD-45, which offers a slightly warm hue to the hands and indices. This is my personal favourite, as it gives the impression of years of use, but still has the black dial. The faux patina works extremely well, and if you buy this with the Bonklip bracelet option, it is the ideal pairing.
Last up is the “Tropical” DD-45, the dial has now faded to a warm brown with much warmer hands and indices, and on a worn leather strap. This to be fair looks like a lot of my Tropic faded watches. True to how they age, the dial has taken on that chocolate look, which works so well with the aged leather strap.
Praesidus A11 DD-45. Credit: Guest Author.
Considerable attention has been dedicated to refining the case profile to complement the exceptional detail applied to the dial ageing process. The lugs, with their radial brushed finish, have been meticulously shaped, their rounded contours accentuated by shiny facet cuts. This level of complexity in case design represents a new frontier for Praesidus, showcasing its commitment to precision craftsmanship and aesthetic excellence
The cases have been finished extremely well and are offered in a brushed satin with a polished bezel. They certainly pay homage to the “Dirty Dozen” watches and have been sympathetically done. All models now feature a screw-in crown and water resistance has been increased to 10ATM (100m/33ft). As with all the watches from Praesidus, they are assembled in the US.
The original Dirty Dozen companies operated their production lines in neutral Switzerland in 1945. In homage to these origins, Praesidus have aptly chosen the Swiss-Made Landeron L24 automatic movement. This movement boasts 25 jewels, a 40-hour power reserve, and operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.
Praesidus A11 DD-45. Credit: Guest Author.
The Bonklip
The inception of Bonklip watch bracelets dates back to the late 1920s and early 1930s, with strong associations with the Royal Air Force (RAF) and British military timepieces. Notably, Bonklip bracelets gained prominence within the RAF post-World War II, particularly among aircrews equipped with the legendary Mark XI navigation watches. These easily adjustable bracelets became a staple accessory for RAF personnel, further solidifying their link with British military timekeeping and so fits with the Praesidus narrative perfectly.
Praesidus A11 DD-45. Credit: Guest Author.
My thoughts:
This marks my second encounter with a Praesidus watch, the previous being the PAC-76, which I reviewed here. I was thoroughly impressed with that, and now the DD-45 has only reinforced my positive perception of the brand. The Landeron movement works well, but the rotor is a little noisy for my liking.
Praesidus have been bang on with pricing on previous models ranging from $195.00 - $645.00, however the DD-45 has risen to between $875.00 - $925.00, so have jumped a price bracket. I hope they haven’t outpriced themselves, as these are great-looking watches but only time will tell. Praesidus have clearly invested considerable time and effort into developing these handsome dials, and although this comes at a cost, for some, it may be worth the extra expense.
Praesidus consistently demonstrates a talent for crafting exceptional homage military watches, and I am confident that the DD-45 will seamlessly integrate into their esteemed collection. These are available to buy directly from Praesidus.
Specifications:
- Case: 316L Stainless Steel 38mm x
- Water Resistance: 10ATM (100m/330ft).
- Hands: Obelisk Shaped filled with Super LumiNova.
- Dial: Popcorn/Flat textured – Raised Super LumiNova Indices and Numerals.
- Glass: Double Domed Sapphire Crystal with Anti- Reflection Coating.
- Movement: Swiss – Made Landeron L24 6UHR Automatic
- Strap Options: Green Perlon – Bonklip Bracelet – Brown Leather.
- Warranty: 2 Year
- Dial Options: Factory Fresh – Patina - Tropic
- Pricing: Nylon and Leather Strap $875.00 – Bonklip $925.00
