When it comes to the world of watches, complications are what set exceptional timepieces apart from the rest. Beyond simply telling time, these intricate features showcase both the craftsmanship and functionality of fine watchmaking. But which complication reigns supreme? In this article, we’ve asked a diverse group of guest authors—watch enthusiasts, collectors, and horology experts—to weigh in on their favourite watch complication. From the practical appeal of the GMT and Day-Date to the timeless elegance of the Moonphase and Perpetual Calendar, and even the understated beauty of a no-complication timepiece, our contributors explore the unique allure of each choice. Whether you’re new to watches or a seasoned aficionado, join us as we delve into what makes these complications truly special.
The Best Watch Complications
They say you should never judge a book by its cover but we’re talking about watches, so it doesn’t count… right? Either way, I’m only human and who am I to turn my nose up at what is arguably the most aesthetically pleasing complication out there, the not so humble moonphase.
Is the moonphase complication a genuinely practical addition to my everyday life that I couldn’t live without being able to access from my wrist? Not really, frankly it’s pretty pointless, but that does nothing to detract from its romantic beauty. Designed as a tool that allows the wearer to check the current status of the phase of the moon, the moonphase complication allows a watch to move beyond the mechanical, into the realm of the astronomical.
Often decorated with stars, constellations and even a touch of sparkly aventurine, a moonphase watch carries with it an air of refined elegance that you won’t necessarily find looking at a chunky dive watch or even a chronograph with all its bells and whistles. It’s not one size fits all though, there are many ways a moonphase can be presented. Whether it take up half of an otherwise minimalistic dial like the C1 Moonphase and the Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 41.5 Platinum, feature as part of a vintage-inspired sector dial design like MAEN's Lunar Classic 36 or show up as just one of many dial features on a watch that also offers a perpetual calendar like the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar, I’d argue that there’s a version of the moonphase out there for any watch collector to fall in love with.
Don’t ask me why, but I’ve always had a thing for perpetual calendars. Ever since I got into watches a few years back, I’ve been fascinated with the concept of a watch being able to tell you the time, day, date, month and year all in one go, even if the year you’re in happens to be a leap year. That goes even more so for the fact that a perpetual calendar is accurate until 2100 – a whopping 76 years from now. I suppose that longevity goes some way to help justify the cost of a purchase of an expensive, complicated piece - it’s a 76-year investment!
All jokes aside though, the perpetual calendar is perhaps the epitome of high horology and has long been a fixture of luxury watchmaking. The 5271P-001 Grand Complication by Patek Philippe for example is hideously expensive, although is arguably the perfect example of a grail watch to me. That’s down to its combination of sheer style, class and the fact it features a perpetual calendar - you couldn’t pack more into a watch that gorgeous if you tried.
You might argue that the fact I can see the time, date, month and year on the lock screen of my smartphone renders the likes of a perpetual calendar useless in this day and age. As with the whole point of horology anyway, watches are fundamentally a backwards-looking phenomenon in a constantly forward-looking age, with the perpetual calendar complication capturing the zeitgeist of the hobby. It might be over the top, but its existence today is a testament to the sheer skill and craftsmanship of watchmaking. If that’s not good enough, I don’t know what is.
The day-date complication is a feature in watches that has become synonymous with both functionality and style, appearing in many iconic models. This dual-display complication, showing both the day of the week and the date of the month, offers more than just practical utility—it has become a hallmark of refined watchmaking.
One of the most famous examples is the Rolex Day-Date, often referred to as the "President" watch. Introduced in 1956, it was the first wristwatch to feature the day and date displayed in full on the dial. This innovation quickly became a symbol of prestige, worn by numerous world leaders and influential figures. The Day-Date’s combination of luxury, reliability, and its instantly recognisable aesthetic has kept it at the forefront of horology for decades.
Another popular model featuring the day-date complication is the Seiko 5 series. Unlike the Rolex, which is associated with high-end luxury, the Seiko 5 offers an accessible entry point for those seeking this complication. Launched in the 1960s, the Seiko 5 series gained popularity for its durability, automatic movement, and affordability. The day-date feature became a standard in the series, appealing to a broad audience and contributing to Seiko's reputation for producing reliable, everyday watches.
These examples illustrate how the day-date complication has transcended its functional roots to become a desirable feature in both luxury and affordable timepieces. Whether in a Rolex or a Seiko, the day-date complication adds a touch of practicality and sophistication to any wristwatch.
When it comes to watch features, the chronograph is a standout. Basically, it’s like having a stopwatch built into your watch. You’ve got buttons to start, stop, and reset the timer, all while the main part of the watch keeps track of regular time.
The chronograph is a pretty simple idea, but what makes it cool is how it looks and works. Many chronographs have extra little dials that show the seconds, minutes, and sometimes even hours. These subdials add both style and functionality, making the watch more than just a timepiece.
I find the added functionality makes me more likely to use and look at my watch because I’ll end up timing things that I otherwise wouldn’t have, which can thus create more of a bonding effect with chronograph watches. It’s no wonder people from all kinds of backgrounds love them—pilots, athletes, and even those of us who just like cool watches. There’s something satisfying about pressing that button and seeing the timer spring into action.
One of the most famous examples is the Omega Speedmaster, which is legendary for its role in NASA’s Apollo missions. Astronauts used it during space flights, so it’s not just for looks.
But if you want something more affordable, the Bulova Lunar Pilot is a great pick. It’s got its own space history as a legitimate and storied moonwatch, but costs a lot less than other chronographs like the Speedmaster. Plus, Bulova just released a cool new version with a red dial that really stands out.
Whether you’re into space or just love stylish, practical watches, the chronograph is a great choice and one of my favourite complications!
I’m going to make this easy for you: two times are better than one. Do you know what’s even better than two times? THREE times.
In most areas of my life, one time would be plenty, but when it comes to watches, I can’t get enough. I’m greedy for time zones. I adore the creative ways this truly international information can be displayed on my little old wrist.
A GMT complication is extremely practical for business people who work with colleagues and clients in far-flung locations, but also strangely emotive because of the connections it can remind us of. Because we always exist in the present, we tend to take it for granted that everyone’s present is shared. But being reminded that the time in the present of people on the other side of the world (and even, in some cases, just a few feet away), is different, is weirdly humbling.
Look, I love a chronograph. I love using them to cook eggs or track the washing cycle. But when it comes to pure usefulness, surely the ability to tell the time trumps being able to track it. That's why the only answer here is the GMT.
For me, the best watch complication is, well, none. Give me a watch with just simple hours and minutes, and I’m good to go. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve been swept up in the world of watch complications on several occasions. It’s easy to become infatuated with the complexity of perpetual calendars, tourbillons and minute repeaters, but if I’m being honest, this infatuation tends to wear off eventually.
Instead, the one type of watch I always come back to is the humble time-only display. Yep, I’m talking about a watch that just tells the time – no date window, no chronograph sub dials, no GMT hand – just hours and minutes (although a seconds hand wouldn’t be a deal-breaker if it was the right watch). For me, these watches are timeless (pun absolutely intended), and instantly appeal to me for their simplicity. There are no distractions and instead, all the focus is on the watch’s design. Without complications to dictate the case dimensions or dial layout, brands also have more freedom to create watches in different sizes and colours which in turn makes for a more fun, enjoyable and wearable watch.
Plus, let’s be real, how often do you actually use those extra complications in everyday life? For me, the simplicity of a time-only watch is all I need. It’s just me, the watch, and the time - no distractions. While I’ll always admire the technical wizardry of a good complication, my heart will forever belong to the straightforward, beautifully uncomplicated time-only watch.
