Welcome back to the WatchGecko magazine! Happy New Year all of you watch heroes and nerds, I hope whatever your resolutions for the new year that it also includes a healthy (or unhealthy dependant on your world view) consumption of watch related content.
Now I have been politely reminded by my editor that my rip roaring trilogy ‘diving’ - yes this pun is part of every article now - into the history of the Rolex Submariner. Yes it needs to be satisfyingly concluded with cultural nods, dots connected and a finale so good it would give the ends of Casablanca, Return of the King, It’s a Wonderful life and of course Toy Story 3 (roundly regarded as the best of the bunch) a run for its creative money.
Yes indeed, whatever comes of this rip-roaring trilogy spare a sympathetic thought for my next tour-de-force where I single handedly take-on something like, say the history of watchwinders, (terrible idea) and turn it from a dull subject to only a somewhat dull subject - that’s the magic of writing and journalism folks!
But I digress - I mean, c’mon you knew I would - however I am focused now I promise, and although 1990 is in many ways (In fact only in one way) is a birth year for me. I have to say that Rolex Submariners of the 1990’s and modern era don’t really ‘float my boat’ so to speak. But cover it I must, and I know that my dozen of fans out there are chomping at the bit. So lets get started (see how didn’t use ‘dive on in’ there? Oh damn it) with the history of the Rolex Submariner Part Three- Modernisation & Innovation… AKA the final reckoning.
Make sure to go back and read parts 1 (click here) and 2 (click here) if you haven't already, and take a look at our strap guides for Rolex watches!
Modernisation and Innovation of the Rolex Submariner
We last left off with some what of a transitional Rolex and actually what I would consider the last of the greats with the 16800 (or perhaps the 16610) as worn by Timothy Dalton in the Living Daylights. Not long after Rolex was dropped by the spy who loved Submariners in favour of the a new actor (Brosnan) and a new brand affiliation (Omega Seamaster), but lets be honest here - I don’t think it hurt the brands reputation much.
Actually, if anything it helped Rolex reinvent itself. This maybe a tough pill to swallow but as a reminder for most of its existence as a brand it was considered THE tool watch of choice. Worn by legendary explorers like Edmund Hillary, Tensing Norgay, Jacques Cousteau and ‘men’s men’ actors like Steve McQueen, Marlon Brando and Sean Connery. But the 1980’s and the advancement of yuppie culture kind of tipped things on its head so by the end of the 90’s you would be more likely to find a Rolex in the boardroom instead of a battlefield and that in part, was why Bond parted with it!
The 16610 kind of matched that change in a way, moving in lockstep with its new (and crucially) well monied fanbase. Carry overs from the transitional 16800 like the sapphire crystal and solid bracelet was a must. But also new changes in later models like tritium markings where ousted in favour of superluminova, more precious metals models that where trialled in previous generations became more common place. You had a two-tone version (16613) making a return in addition to the brands first fully 18k solid gold model (16618) and finally, in 2003 a very highly anticipated green bezelled 50th Anniversary model nicknamed by us nerds as the Kermit!
With the no-date 14060 the brand had pretty much fully modernised and reinvigorated its once tool-tastic appearance. Whereas the previous generation of no-dates the 5513 opted for a classic no-nonsense Matte dial look the newer model dropped it in favour of a luxurious, deep gloss dial.
The movements also took a step up as well, the 3135 introduced in 1988 was a revelation by the standards of the day - in fact, even today I would still highly rate this movement. A COSC certified, 4 hertz updated in-house upgrade boasting 48 hours of power reserve and accuracy of just +/- 4 seconds per day. With some even going as far as to regard it as benchmark in horology, something Rolex has always been known for!
These where the last of the “old shape” designs both enjoying a solid run until 2012, where Rolex decided to completely modernise the now luxury divers watch (this was actually in 2008, so there was some overlap - aka a 4 year mourning period - queen Victoria had longer). Yes, we are now doomed to speak of the dreaded ‘Maxi-Case’ the watch model that is like marmite. But, interestingly enough the first Maxi-case was actually on the revamped GMT-Master II 116718 in 2005.
The new Submariner reference 116610 was part of the new Rolex ‘Maxi-club’ and along with large wearing profile (it is still actually the same proportionally as the previous model - its just those Fatboy lugs!) The new Subby had a number of innovations that I do think are mostly good, the glide lock microadjust was (and still is) magnificent, the sapphire crystal looks even better… somehow and while I prefer aluminium bezels for their militaristic and characterful look there is no denying that the ceramic Cerachrom insert is a bit of luxury.
As is the way with modern Rolex, special editions and colour ways where released, you have the Smurf (all blue), the Hulk (all green) and Starbucks (green bezel and black dial) and the Cookie Monster? (Blue bezel and black dial. They also continued with the two tone and full gold versions on a maxi case, ironically these probably make more sense now given the brands luxury direction. Something that was certainly established by the 1990’s and firmly cemented by the late naughties.
And that folks brings us to today, I mean it has been quite a ride right? Personally I think that if you were to sit in a room with with the OG Rolex from the 1950’s and perch it next to the most modern version, I think two things would happen. Firstly, you would immediately notice the quantum leap in watchmaking prowess over the many decades and secondly, you would almost instantly discover whether modern or vintage Rolex speaks to you more. I think by now you can take a wild guess as to which I prefer!
Watches a such a curious thing, and a model line as steeped in history as the submariner deserves a lot of love from us in the watch space. Yes it maybe the watch to hate, and I maybe guilty of that just as much as anyone (despite owning one). But it is really important to note that the watch world would not exist in the same way it does today if it wasn’t for the enduring legacy of the watches like the Submariner. It maybe a boring watch but scratch the surface and you’ll clearly see that its all surface deep, the tip of the horological iceberg. Once you dive in to its history and the role its had shaping the world we have today you can’t help but give it the respect. And if I’ve learnt anything from my odyssey into this much loved watch then it’s this - the Submariner is not only a modern classics it means multiple things to multiple people. Oh yes, and I really want a 16800 now…
