The refinement of perfection, 1mm at a time…
So this is all quite new and different, isn't it? Talking about new watches from Rolex in September rather than March feels a little odd, although what else do you expect from 2020? ‘New’ and ‘Rolex’ can yield interesting results as they’re a brand who rarely introduce anything groundbreakingly fresh. Their range of watches are originally designed pieces from decades ago, over time these models receive updates to keep them running smoothly and appropriate for the shifting market. Think of Rolex like a software update for your iPhone. Most of the time nothing major normally changes but as you experience it more you notice small changes that have a big impact. Car manufacturers like Audi or BMW are also similar. A car from one of these brands that is 5-10 years old doesn’t look that different to the new 2020 model. With this in mind, let's see what Rolex has in store for us in 2020...
The Rolex Sky-Dweller, now on OysterFlex.
The Rolex Sky-Dweller now on OysterFlex - Image Credit: Rolex
A tame start for Rolex as we kick things off with a smaller new addition for 2020. The Sky-Dweller watch itself remains unchanged (still in 42mm, still in precious metals and still powered by the same 9001 movement) however the model is now available on their Oysterflex bracelet.
Yes all Rolex have done here is roll out their popular strap option (previously seen on the Yachtmaster and the Daytona) to another model, but any news from Rolex is always good to see. They’re an extremely secretive company that tend to keep to themselves. The addition of the Oysterflex on these models really does change the look of the Sky-Dweller quite a bit, much like the bracelet did when it arrived on the Daytona.
Stats:
Reference: 326235 in Everose & 326238 for the Yellow Gold
Case width: 42mm
Movement: in house calibre 9001 Automatic movement
Functions: Seconds, minutes, and hours with hour hand and home-time indication by 24-hour ring; annual calendar
Power reserve: 72 hours
Case: 18K yellow gold or rose gold
Water-resistance: 100m
Strap: OysterFlex bracelet
Price: $41,500 (Everose), $40,000 (yellow gold)
The New Datejust 31.
The New Datejust 31 - Image Credit: Rolex
Next we have another small change for Rolex as they continue to build on their 31mm range of Datejust models with new familiar looking additions. These steel and white gold models are all quite standard looking for Rolex with the green and diamonds model being the most out there. Looking at the smaller models from Rolex you normally see a lot more colourful and unique options, so it probably shouldn’t come as a surprise to see even more.
Case width: 31mm
Movement: in house calibre 2236 Automatic movement
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds and date
Material: Steel and white gold
Water-resistance: 100m
Strap: Oyster or Jubilee bracelet.
Goodbye Oyster Perpetual 39. Hello 41
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 - Image Credit: Rolex
Next is the start of a new theme for Rolex, 41mm. The Oyster Perpetual is Rolex’s cleanest and most simple model with hours, minutes and seconds being the only functions of the watch and symmetry being the most appealing feature. Previously we saw this model in 26mm, 31mm, 34mm, 36mm and 39mm, however now Rolex has decided the 39mm is up for the chop. In its place are some new dial variations and a new 41mm size. This now brings it more in line with the Datejust 41 which is its closest watch visually. I’d be willing to bet if someone walked into a Rolex AD looking for a Datejust 41 the shop assistant would also put this new 41mm OP in front of them as another option. Before all they could offer in the same price point would be the 39mm model which is quite different size wise when the two are next to each other.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 - Image Credit: Rolex
A new silver dial and black dial both with sunburst finish have been added as well with both remaining quite reserved. Both of these new models have the new 3230 movement (more on that in a minute) and of course the new size. It’s a shame to see the 39mm OP disappear from the Rolex line up as it was such an incredible option for those after a modern, simple Rolex in a conservative size, however to my eyes this was simply a business move. By bringing this up to 41mm the OP remains more competitive in their ‘mens’ watch line up which in turn will more than likely end up in more sales.
A smart move, it’s just a shame we had to lose the 39mm to make way for this piece.
Case width: 41mm
Movement: new in house calibre 3230 Automatic movement
Functions: hours, minutes and seconds
Power reserve: 70 hours
Case: Stainless steel
Water-resistance: 100m
Strap: Oystersteel bracelet
Price: $5,900
Finally, new Rolex Submariners.
The new 41mm Rolex Submariner - Image Credit: Rolex
The previous OP in 41mm with the new 3230 movements set us up perfectly for the headline new addition for Rolex, their new 41mm Submariner. This is the largest Submariner ever from Rolex and it sounds like although the case is larger, through clever refinements and updates the end product isn’t too far away from what we’re used to.
So what exactly are we looking at here? Well to start with the old maxi case is no longer and in its place is a slimmer, refined V2 that is now 41mm wide. Next is the new movement for the no date example, the 3230. Now with 70 hours of power reserve, Rolex’s Chronergy escapement ensures timekeeping is only +/- 2 seconds a day and overall efficiency improvements meaning servicing shouldn't be as much of an issue. The biggest visual change comes with the date version of the Submariner as there are now many more variations to choose from. Steel with black bezel, Steel with green bezel, yellow gold with black bezel and white gold are the latest versions of the most iconic diver ever created.
The biggest talking points include a modern-day ‘Kermit’ with black dial and a green bezel and the now old all white gold with blue dial and bezel has been replaced with a black dial and blue bezel Submariner.
It's good to see the case on these new models be slimmed down and more elegant, despite the technically larger size. Revolution.Watch has posted a great article covering the new size in detail along with comparison images to the 116610 if you really want to get an idea of how different this new watch looks. In true Rolex fashion, they have evolved the design rather than a brand new revolution. These changes were long overdue as it's been 8 years since there was anything new for the Submariner. It seems the balance of the watch has been more considered and I'm sure once in hand the difference will be noticeable.
The new 41mm Rolex Submariner - Image Credit: Rolex
Stats:
Case width: 41mm
Movement: New 3230 in house automatic movement for no date, 3235 in house automatic movement for date model
Functions: hours, minutes and seconds (+ date for the date models)
Power reserve: 70 hours
Case: stainless steel / white gold / yellow gold
Water-resistance: 300m
Strap: Oystersteel bracelet
Price: from $8,100 - $39,650
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36mm - the Stella dial is back!
The New Colourful Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 Image Credit: Rolex
It's not all doom and gloom for the Oyster Perpetual as the 36mm model received some love in the shape of five new bright colours. These new colourful dials also benefit from the new no-date movement the 3230 as found in the new Submariner.
Green, yellow, turquoise and coral red are the main talking points here as these new lacquered dials add a welcomed pop to the OP range. When i first saw these new models, I instantly thought of our friends at Vintage Watch Company in Burlington Arcade London as the comparison to the Stella dials found on vintage Rolex models from the 70s.
These watches were relatively ignored and unloved for some time until their collectability increased, something makes me think these new watches from Rolex won’t get ignored quite as much.
For me, I find the turquoise the most compelling and I’m sure it won’t take long for that specific model to be compared to the iconic blue of Tiffany and Co.
Entry-level Rolex just got a whole lot more colourful…
Reference number: 126000
Case width: 36mm
Movement: New 3230 in house automatic movement
Functions: hours, minutes and seconds
Power reserve: 70 hours
Case: Stainless steel
Water-resistance: 100m
Strap: Oystersteel bracelet
Price: from $5,600
The new 41mm Rolex Submariner - Image Credit: Rolex
So there it is Rolex watches in 2020. The biggest surprises for me came in the shape of a larger case for the Submariner, the 39 OP being dropped and a somewhat underwhelming blue bezel Submariner. It's still a big news day for Rolex fans as a new movement that has been rolled out to not just their poster boy watch the Submariner, but also their entry-level models helps to ensure Rolex is still a huge player in the 5k mark. Which one are you going to be on the waiting list for?
