Yema's Renaissance? The Skin Diver and Granvelle Renaissance Reviewed

There are few brands in independent modern watchmaking quite like Yema, from its humble beginnings in 1940’s France, the company built its reputation producing capable tool watches for divers, pilots, and adventurers. In fact models such as the Superman helped establish Yema as one of France's most recognisable watchmakers, but despite its rich history, like many a French watchmaker, it is overshadowed by larger the Swiss operators.

In recent years, however, Yema has been pursuing a strategy that I think deserves attention. Rather than relying solely on heritage-inspired designs, the company has invested in developing proprietary movements and expanding manufacturing capabilities in Morteau, in the French Jura region. The result is a collection of watches that feels increasingly confident and distinctive.

Two of the most compelling examples are the Skin Diver CMM.20 and the Granvelle Renaissance CMM.29. On the surface, they could hardly be more different. One is a vintage-inspired dive watch rooted in Yema's sporting heritage, while the other is an elegant dress watch inspired by Renaissance architecture. Yet both share a common goal: showcasing what modern French watchmaking can achieve.

The Skin Diver CMM.20 is perhaps the easier watch to understand here, I mean after all – vintage/retro skin divers are still one of the most popular types of watches you can buy.

And in a time when nearly every brand seems to offer a vintage-inspired diver, Yema has created something that feels authentic rather than nostalgic for nostalgia's sake. The design draws upon the company's own history (which I cannot ignore as a baked-in advantage), resulting in a watch with genuine character rather than a collection of familiar vintage tropes.

Measuring 39.5mm in diameter and 11.5mm thick, the proportions strike an excellent balance between vintage charm and modern practicality. It wears comfortably on a wide range of wrists, while the slim profile… albeit maybe a little top heavy thanks to the push down / locking bezel action. 

The dial I think is particularly successful. Large Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9 provide instant legibility, while the broad hands and clean layout reinforce the watch's tool-watch credentials. It’s simple, functional and every element a tool watch, yet the overall design remains distinctive enough to stand apart from countless competitors.

Overall, I would say the finishing is remarkably good for the price point. Brushed surfaces dominate the case, complemented by polished accents that add just enough visual interest without compromising the watch's utilitarian character. The sapphire bezel insert is another welcome touch, elevating the overall feel of the watch and helping justify its position within Yema's higher-end offerings.

But my standout feature is the Scales bracelet. Inspired by vintage Yema designs, it gives the watch a personality that many modern bracelets lack. More importantly, it is comfortable, well executed, and equipped with a practical micro-adjustment system that significantly improves day-to-day wearability.

But if you thought that was impressive enough wait until you see the movement. Powering the watch is Yema's Manufacture Morteau 20, better known as the CMM.20. This in-house micro-rotor movement represents one of the most ambitious projects undertaken by the brand in recent years.

Micro-rotor movements occupy a special place in watchmaking. By integrating the rotor into the movement itself, rather than mounting it above the bridges, manufacturers can achieve a thinner overall profile while retaining the convenience of automatic winding. Historically, this type of architecture has been associated with considerably more expensive watches.

The CMM.20 offers a healthy 70-hour power reserve, operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, and is regulated to Yema's stated accuracy of -3/+7 seconds per day. While us watch nerds will inevitably debate the finer details of movement finishing and construction, the fact that Yema has invested in developing this calibre at all is significant. And believe me I will die on this hill! It is amazing to see an independent brand at this price point having the balls to do something like this. 

In words of the Monty Phython gang “and now it’s time for something completely different!”

Named after the historic Granvelle Palace in Besançon, this watch takes inspiration from Renaissance architecture and transforms those influences into something genuinely distinctive. In a market saturated with derivative dress watches, originality is perhaps its greatest strength.

The 37.5mm case immediately feels elegant, while the slim 8.5mm profile gives the watch a refined presence on the wrist. Although modest in size, the cushion-shaped architecture provides more visual impact than the measurements might suggest.

What stands out most is the attention given to finishing and detail. The case combines polished and brushed surfaces with subtle architectural flourishes that reinforce the watch's inspiration without becoming overly decorative. There is a confidence to the design that feels refreshing.

Rather than borrowing heavily from established luxury sports watches or traditional dress watch templates, Yema has created something that feels uniquely its own – and being honest here, this was the watch I wore the most out of the two! 

The dial Yema undoubtedly designed to reward attention and is the centrepiece of the Granvelle Renaissance.

Layered construction, geometric textures, and carefully considered finishing create an impressive sense of depth. Depending on the lighting, different details emerge, giving the watch a dynamic quality that photographs struggle to capture fully.

The small-seconds display integrates naturally into the design, adding visual interest without disrupting the balance of the dial. Every element feels intentional, contributing to a cohesive whole rather than competing for attention.

It is a watch that rewards closer inspection, revealing more of its character the longer you spend with it.

Powering this beauty of a watch is another Yema Original, the inhouse CMM.29 Movement which, is actually a smaller seconds version of the CMM.20 just with the complication at the 9. 

Both the Skin Diver CMM.20 and Granvelle Renaissance CMM.29 showcase a side of Yema that many enthusiasts may not yet fully appreciate. I think the reason goes back to Yema’s recent issues with customer service, I had a long conversation around this with them and it seems that, along with the new and improved in-house movements and designs, this too has been addressed. I think the next few years will prove to be a bit of a relaunch for the brand, and as the 2020’s draw to a close you may be forgiven for not recognising the brand from its image at the start of the decade – and I think that’s a really good thing.

The Skin Diver is likely to appeal to the broadest audience. It is versatile, well proportioned, and combines vintage-inspired aesthetics with genuinely modern engineering. For anyone seeking a distinctive alternative to the usual Swiss dive watch options, it makes a compelling case for itself.

The Granvelle Renaissance is the more ambitious watch and arguably my favourite of the two which is something I wouldn’t have said before unboxing them! Its architectural inspiration, intricate dial work, and elegant proportions create something genuinely memorable. It feels less concerned with fitting into an established category and more focused on expressing a unique identity.

Together, these watches represent a fascinating chapter in Yema's ongoing evolution. They demonstrate a brand willing to invest not only in heritage, but also in movement development, original design, and a distinctly French approach to watchmaking.

In a market increasingly crowded with familiar ideas, that willingness to forge its own path may prove to be Yema's greatest strength.