As strange as it might sound, the iconic Omega Seamaster never used to have that much to do with the sea, except in an abstract sense. Before the Seamaster Professional came along in the late 1950s, the Seamaster was more of a sports watch, or even a dress watch.
This is exactly the sort of Seamaster that I have been proud to wear on my wrist for the last few years, from the very early days of the brand. Because, thanks also to James Bond, ‘Seamaster’ is no longer just the name of a family of watches: it has truly transcended its manufacturer.
“Which watch are you wearing?”
“A Seamaster.”
Enough said. So it’s hard to imagine a time when the name was so new that it was almost unfamiliar. This watch though dates from that very time, and as such, it represents an incredible frontier.
Vintage Omega Seamaster 1950 - Credit WatchGecko
Unlike many older watches that have passed through many hands, we have some precise information on this particular timepiece's history. It was bought in Africa in the 1950s and came to the United Kingdom about a decade later, where it stayed within the family. I became its custodian only three years ago; a responsibility that I’m always aware of due to its astonishing originality and sentimental value, but not one that stops me wearing it (since putting an extension on the original bracelet to allow me to do so).
The Seamaster was also a crucial watch for Omega, as it was first created to celebrate the company’s 100th birthday in 1948. Inspiration came from British navy watches of World War II (hence the ‘Seamaster’ name) and the lineage is incredibly clear in this example. Underneath the sleek looks there was genuine technical innovation: a rubber O-ring gasket to improve water resistance. That took inspiration from the technology installed in submarines, and while by modern standards this watch might look fragile, Omega took one and strapped it to a Douglas DC6 that flew over the North Pole in 1956 to prove its resilience.
Vintage Omega Seamaster 1950 - Credit WatchGecko
The watch was launched in two editions: a three-hander (like this one, the most popular model) and a small seconds version. The military look was toned down to encourage people to wear it as their everyday timepiece – precisely what happened to this one during the first few years of its life. The marketing material of the time called it a watch for “town, sea and country”; so perhaps the closest modern equivalent would be the Aqua Terra.
The Seamaster would eventually go on to become a much more chunky dive watch, with the arrival in 1957 of the Seamaster 300 (denoting improved water resistance) and then the Seamaster Professional – which became James Bond’s favourite. Yet the original watch will always be an incredibly important part of the company’s legacy, which is why the Omega Seamaster 1948 limited edition was launched in 2018 as a tribute to celebrate 70 years of the model (albeit in a bigger size – 38mm – compared to the 34mm original). The original movement was also ahead of its time, thanks to its shockproof and anti-magnetic qualities, as that North Pole flight proved.
Vintage Omega Seamaster 1950 - Credit WatchGecko
I read a beautiful description about this watch once, which called it “a product of war in a time of peace.” But there’s a lot more to it than that. This particular watch is a truly stunning example that tells its own story as well as laying down the roots of watchmaking history, thanks to one of the most famous names in the industry.
Vintage Omega Seamaster 1950 - Credit WatchGecko
In time, it has mellowed to become a classical relic of a nostalgic era, showcasing the sort of simple elegance that has long been lost in more modern designs. The proportions, the design, the sheer silver sheen of it, is if anything more stunning right now than when it first left the factory in La Chaux de Fonds.
Omega Seamaster Modern Edition - Credit WatchGecko
Despite its age, this venerable Seamaster still fits into any time or place, and as it approaches its 70th birthday, its adventures are still ongoing. Perhaps only just beginning. Very few watches have survived the test of time so gracefully and yet so practically. This is still a watch you can wear daily – just as you could in the 1950s. And, having recently taken it to Watches and Wonders in Geneva this year – where among the ranks of the finest timepieces in the world, at the premier watch event of the year, it still turned heads – that’s exactly what I intend on doing.
If you’re into watches, every piece in your collection is special. But this one, for so many reasons, really means something else.