Can we ever have too much of a good thing? IWC has really ramped up the focus on the Portugieser line for this release cycle, revamping several model lines and establishing a new, decidedly breezy colour palette that is repeated across all lines in one way or another.
For the IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser hand-wound tourbillon we see the brand leaning on its most obviously opulent colourway, a gold case with a black obsidian dial, which also makes an appearance in the chronograph, perpetual calendar, and automatic collections (in both 40 and 42 mm in the latter) that hit the shelves this April. One notable difference materials-wise here, however, is the 18-carat Armor gold® case that this model shares with the Perpetual Calendar novelties. This proprietary material replaces the “standard” 5N gold used on the chronograph and automatic models that utilise the same colour scheme.
IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night - Credit IWC
IWC doesn’t provide a huge amount of information on exactly what makes Armor Gold® so special other than saying that, “Thanks to its improved microstructure, Armor Gold® is significantly harder and more wear-resistant than conventional 5N gold.” Although the precise materials used in this 75% gold alloy aren’t specified (presumably so the brand’s in-house R&D cannot be copied), it isn’t the first time we’ve seen brands play around with a traditional material’s composition to achieve better durability. Therefore, while it would be nice to know exactly how it differs, it is likely safe to say it is superior to regular 5N gold in tangible ways (and if we find out the composition at a later date, we’ll share it with you here and elsewhere).
It’s a classic look for a complicated model that adheres to the Portugieser’s generally pared-back design codes. Through a generously sized aperture at 6 o’clock, we can see an expertly finished tourbillon cage, rotating once every minute, taking the place of (and performing the same function as) the going seconds sub-dial that occupies the same space on the chronograph and automatic models.
The tourbillon is, as one would expect from an experienced maker like IWC, superbly finished. The mechanism is so fine (weighing just 0.675 grams) that its 56 components can only be assembled by IWC’s finest watchmakers. Additionally, the silicon pallet lever and escape wheel have been treated with a Diamond Shell® coating that reduces friction, facilitating the impressive 84-hour power reserve, which is a welcome feature of any hand-wound movement.
The star of the show in this instance, however, is perhaps the elegant day/night indication at 9 o’clock, which replaces the Arabic numeral that would normally occupy that position. This component is spherical and rotates on a vertical axis once every 24 hours, revealing a dark side and a polished gold side to indicate the transition between day and night hours. Thanks to this being a hand-wound movement, there is no rotor weight to impede the case back view of this miniature “planet” as it spins languidly from light to dark. Small touches like this can elevate an otherwise basic complication to a whole new level and provide hourly entertainment as the dial display changes throughout the day.
Our Choice of Straps:
The Portugieser hand-wound Tourbillon demands a strap that looks both sleek and subtle. It’s offered on a smart black alligator leather strap, but the WatchGecko store has some stunning high-quality replacement options. Our Leuven Cavallo strap is hand crafted at a workshop in Belgium and is made with durability to last. It also comes in 8 timelessly classic colour options and has an incredibly supple texture. Alternatively, why not try the Laverton Vegan strap? The epitome of elegance with its soft, velvety texture and two neutral colours to choose from.
Technical specifications
- Name: IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night
- Reference: IW545901
- Movement: IWC-manufactured hand-wound 81925, with 84-hour power reserve
- Case dimensions: 42.4 mm wide, 10.8 mm thick, water-resistant to 60 metres
- Case Material: 18-carat Armor Gold® case
- Crystal: Convex sapphire with antireflective coating on both sides
- Dial: Obsidian lacquered dial, gold-plated hands and applied gold indices
- Strap: Curved black alligator leather strap from Santoni with 18-carat Armor Gold® folding clasp
