Is Herbelin The Best French Watch Brand?

In the world of horology, where tradition meets innovation, the French watchmaking scene holds a unique charm that captivates collectors and enthusiasts alike. Although often understated and underestimated in comparison to its Swiss counterpart, the French watch industry is experiencing a renaissance, with its distinctive blend of artistry and technical precision gaining recognition on the global stage. At the heart of this vibrant industry is Herbelin, a brand synonymous with elegance and precision.

To gain deeper insights into the allure of French timepieces, I had the privilege of interviewing Hervé Ménestrel, the Area Sales Manager for Herbelin in the South of England.

It’s a funny story actually, back in 2008 my best friend was given a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch for his 18^th birthday and his excitement was infectious. I started looking at watches online and soon fell down the rabbit hole with him. In 2017, that passion led me to start my own horological blog, similarly to at WatchGecko I’d review watches, and I made many connections in the industry this way. This led me to job opportunities with Omega and Breguet in Paris, then I moved to the UK working for Pequignet before finally beginning my career with Herbelin.

Our status as an independent French watch brand with 77 years of unique family-owned history. Having rebranded in 2022 (from Michel Herbelin to Herbelin) and launched our flagship store in Paris, the company is now led by the third generation of the Herbelin family. We’ve operated from our base in Charquemont since our inception in 1947. As it’s a small town everyone knows someone, or is related to someone, who has been an employee of Herbelin. Our watches are designed and assembled in Charquemont, using exclusively Swiss movements. When Michel Herbelin started to create his first watches from the family house, his vision was to produce high quality watches at an affordable price. It has always been a key part of our philosophy.

Mathieu Herbelin (Creative Director) takes inspiration from our in-house archive of historic models to ensure each watch we produce shares a harmonious sense of Herbelin design DNA. Our extensive range of meticulously designed ladies watches in particular sets us apart from other brands. Since the rebranding, our new strategy is to be seen more as a serious watchmaker for both women and men. 

Herbelin has always created watches for women with as much detail and care taken as in the production of men’s watches. So often brands will take one of their men’s watches, redesign it into a smaller case size and call it a day. Thanks to its dedicated ladies collections and strong focus on design, Herbelin is quite successful within the women’s watch market. 

Newport is our flagship collection. Created in 1988 by Michel Herbelin’s son and inspired by the prestigious America's Cup race to Newport, Rhode Island, this nautical collection has developed into an extensive range that caters to all tastes. It is easily recognisable thanks to its distinctive design, including central lugs and a crown engraved with a ship’s wheel. We celebrated the Newport 35th anniversary last year, while introducing new materials like ceramic and forged carbon. In April 2024, we unveiled the beautiful Newport Heritage Chronograph Bi Compax with a panda dial and ceramic bezel, limited to 300 pieces.

*After much deliberation*

Trilobe and Pequignet for high-end, haute horology. Yema and LIP for their historical significance, and of course, Herbelin. People will expect to see Baltic here, and I agree I couldn’t not mention them. An honourable mention would need to be given to Charlie Paris, ZRC and March LA.B as well for their use of colour and bold design.

We’re well-established outside of France, having a presence in more than 50 countries. The UK, Ireland, Germany, Belgium and South Africa are important markets for us. Herbelin has been present in the UK for 35 years, and we believe there is a strong potential. Whilst this could possibly be the first time your readers hear about us, we’re not a microbrand by any means. Not to say there is anything wrong with microbrands but with 77 years of rich history behind us, this is just not the case.

My first thought is Christopher Ward, and I am particularly impressed by their Bel Canto. Mr Jones Watches comes to mind too for their artistic, out of the box design DNA. Within the independent watchmaker’s scene, it’s impossible not to mention Roger W Smith. 

Design and creativity. Brands like Herbelin have a ‘French touch’, we are a little bolder and many of us dare to do something different to the traditional.

I think we need to start with more recognition. France has an incredibly rich watchmaking history and know-how dating back from the late 1700, when Franche-Comté then became the true cradle of European watchmaking. Many French people work for Swiss watch brands, the two are not so far apart. We also need to create a sense of togetherness across the French industry, bridging the gap between older, established brands and up and coming brands. Let us not be afraid of social media and change, we must keep up if we want to maintain relevance in a changing culture.

With Switzerland so nearby there is certainly less going on in terms of trade shows and events in France than in the UK. The biggest watch events in the world, like Watches and Wonders, take place so nearby that we are more than happy to travel but there is a definite gap in the market for events like this, particularly in Paris. 

It’s difficult to say. Though French in-house manufacturing mostly died out around the time of the quartz crisis, if economically viable, then I think that will be a necessary development. During the past five years, we’ve witnessed some interesting initiatives to relocate manufacturing capabilities. Most of the actors are working together to raise awareness and this has resulted in a positive dynamic. French watch brands are gaining popularity and are appreciated by more and more watch collectors. 

Having rebranded not too long ago, we are capitalising on our international expansion and earn recognition far outside the reaches of just France. Through increasing our relevance we’re hoping to appeal to both collector’s and the younger generation as we bring the brand into the future.