In the realm of watches, their primary role is undoubtedly to tell time. However, the calendar watch functionality extends to providing information about the day, date, month, and in some cases, even the year. There are three prominent categories within calendar watches, the Annual Calendar, Perpetual Calendar and Complete Calendar. Before we dive into my selection of my Top 5, let's explore the distinctions between them.
What is an Annual Calendar?
An Annual Calendar watch adeptly differentiates between 30 and 31 days, requiring adjustment only once a year during the transition from February's end to March's beginning, accommodating the leap year.
What is a Perpetual Calendar?
In contrast, a Perpetual Calendar possesses the capability to recognize distinctions between each month, independent of leap years, requiring adjustment only once every 100 years.
What is a Complete Calendar?
Additionally, there exists a third option known as the Complete Calendar. While also capable of displaying the time, day, date, and month, it requires adjustment five times a year, specifically at the end of months with fewer than 31 days.
All types typically showcase the time, day, and date, and Annual or Perpetual Calendars, often include a moon phase display. These complications can come at quite a cost, as these tend to be at the upper end of a brand’s range and pricing.
Moser Endeavour Perpetual
H. Moser Endeavour Perpetual - Credit H.Moser
First up is the H. Moser Endeavour Perpetual, which I was lucky enough to try on and play with only a few days ago. Blown away, is an understatement, this really is another level. Under the loop, the craftsmanship is something I have never seen before. The attention to detail really is unsurpassed and at £75,000.00 so it should be. Starting with the 42mm Tantalum steel case, this is a thing of beauty, the shape and design of this is flawless. Side on too, it’s a dream, but let's get into that dial.
OMG, that’s off the chart. The fumé enamel dial is made up of several layers of coloured glass fused to the gold base dial which is repeated and refined leaving an almost “alive” texture. It’s brought to life as the light catches it, creating a depth of beauty. The layout is anything but cluttered, with leaf hands, for the time, a power reserve at 9 and small seconds at 6. The date window at 3 is so clear and if you look carefully at the centre, there is a tiny month hand, which points to one of the 12 hours, to denote which month it is. The large crown is so smooth to operate, almost buttery, but extremely precise. Flip this over and you’ll note that there is a curved case back crystal, which adds to how comfortable this wears. The HMC 800 movement is inundated with 32 rubies and the finishing is as it should be at this level. Offering a whopping 168 hours of power-reserve, you won’t have to wind this too often. Bang in the centre of the movement at the rear, is the year indicator, where black is the leap year.
All I can say is, if you ever get the chance to try on a Moser, then do. I know I’ll never own one, but I will remember the day I had it on my wrist.
Longines Master Collection L2.673.4.78.3
Longines Master Collection - Credit Longines
Next up is the L2.673.4.78.3, within the Master Collection from Longines. This Moon phase watch comes in at £3,350.00 and boy do you get a lot of watch for your money. The dial is busy, however, the layout is clear and it’s easy to navigate around it. The Chronometer is a nice touch but does add more information to the dial which some may find too much. The stunning 40mm polished stainless steel case houses the signed crown at 3 and the polished Chronometer pushers at 2 and 4. From the outside in, we have the 60-second scale on the rehaut, then the date tracking around the outer edge of the dial, with a central blued date crescent marker. The clear Arabic numbers are not applied, but printed and at 12, 6 and 9 you have the sub-dials. Within them, at 12, you have day and month windows with the chronometer minutes. At 6 the Moon phase and the chronometer hours and finally at 9, the seconds and 24-hour counter. The dial itself has a beautiful barleycorn pattern, giving it a lot of texture. The clear case back shows off the signed rotor and detailed movement. The engraving on the case back is for me a little too bold and in your face. Finally, the brown Alligator strap really finishes the look.
IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe
IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe - Credit IWC
The next offering is from IWC and it’s not small, at 46.5mm, it’s the largest of my lineup. It’s the (deep breath) Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe. It is also the only ceramic case and one I have tried on. Now let me be honest, when this came out a few months ago, I was immediately drawn to it. When I visited the AD in Bond Street and got to try this on, I really was blown away. It is expensive at £34,900.00 and way out of my budget, however, when I had this on my wrist, I honestly got goosebumps. I felt like a million dollars and in another life would hope to own one, but boy this is one hell of a watch.
First, the 46.5mm ceramic case is so smooth and cool to the skin. The monochrome deep black dial is a dream, as there is so much retail space for everything to comfortably fit in. The huge white Super-LumiNova hands are so simplistic and aid the legibility of this watch.
Below the 12, you have the double moon phase display, showing the moon as seen from the southern and northern hemispheres. The sub-dial at 3 shows both the date and the power reserve (up to 7 days). Above 6, the sub-dial depicts the month, and next to that at 7, the year. Finally at 9, the last sub-dial shows the seconds and day of the week.
All of this is controlled by the huge onion crown at 3 o’clock. Powering all of this is the IWC in-house 52615 movement. Holding this beast on your wrist is a sublimely soft rubber strap with a deployant clasp, which is very comfortable.
Chopard L.U.C. Perpetual Twin
My penultimate choice is the L.U.C Perpetual Twin from Chopard. Of course, it’s the sunburst blue version, as blue is one of my things. Let’s start with the 43mm Lucent Steel case, this is absolutely stunning and in keeping with Chopard’s high-end look.
The dial layout differs from some we have seen and in my view, the most pleasing to look at. The soft blue hue on the dial compliments the polish of the case so well. This is a thing of beauty. The rhodium-plated applied hour markers resemble arrowheads, pointing to the centre of the dial. The double date window at 12, is clear to read as is the rest of this watch. It features 4 sub-dials, all simple and legible. At 3, you have your month display, with a tiny leap year micro-dial slightly to its upper right. 6 o’clock sees your seconds sub-dial whilst at 9 you have the day. I do like the overall minimalist look and feel of this watch. It’s a very considered piece. You can tell the thought that has gone into the design and look of this watch. At it’s epicentre is the COSC-certified in-house calibre 96.22-L. It has a 65-hour power reserve and signed micro-rotor and really is a thing of beauty. At £24,100.00, it may seem a lot, but remember this is a Chopard.
MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual LMP EVO
MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual LMP EVO - Credit MB&F
Finally, I offer up something very different. The MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual LMP EVO, yes, it’s a bit of a mouthful, but my word, this goes beyond anything you may have seen. You may think I’ve gone off the rails with this last choice, but honestly, what a finale. Max Büsser and Friends (MB&F) produce some of the wildest watches this side of Mars. Far beyond the norm, lies one of the most creative teams around. Everything they produce is way outside of the box, they just let their creative juices run free and create, well, works of art.
This Perpetual Legacy Machine sits in a 44mm case and houses 581 individual components. Developed by Steven McDonnell, (a fascinating insight into his work can be seen here) this is as complicated as a movement can be. It is aesthetically a thing of beauty and goes far beyond the design realms of anything normal. That is probably why; this costs a whopping £167,000.00, and you definitely do get what you pay for with this. A true work of art, this Legacy Machine goes beyond the norm, proving that when it comes to watches, normal is just a setting on the washing machine. It's more than a watch, it's a statement that screams, "I've made it, and I'm not looking back.
So, there you have it—five calendar watches that will not only tell you the time but also make you the star of the wrist-watching show. Happy time-travelling!
