All At Sea - The New Fears Brunswick 40 'Helmsman' ES

I think it’s fair to say that watches marketed towards sailing and yachting spend far more time posing on teak decks than they do helping anyone actually sail a boat.

That's not necessarily a criticism. Firstly, aside from one of two people I hardly know anyone who sails and that’s not to mention that luxury watches have always traded as much on lifestyle as practicality. But every now and then a brand comes along and approaches things from the opposite direction and increasingly I’m finding that us Brits are leading the charge!

That's exactly what Fears appears to have done with the new Brunswick 40 'Helmsman' ES.

I'll admit I've got a soft spot for Fears and over the past few years I’ve had the pleasure of meeting Nicholas and team and their passion for British watchmaking and classic designs shines through all the work they do. In an industry where brands often chase trends with alarming enthusiasm, the Bristol-based company has always seemed comfortable following its own path.

With its commitment to reviving historic designs and championing British watchmaking, Fears - through its refined designs have carved out a special place in the hearts of us as collectors, and its well-earned. Fears has built a distinctive identity over the last decade and the Helmsman continues that tradition, albeit with a surprisingly practical twist.

At first glance, it has all the markings of a familiar Brunswick model. The rounded cushion case is still there, the elegant proportions remain, and the dial design and hand make it unmistakably a Fears. Spend a little more time with it, however, and you realise very quickly that this isn't simply a new colourway with a nautical name attached - it’s a watch with a job to do.

The clue is in the letters "ES", which stand for Endurance Specification. Following last year's EXPERIMENTAL 01 project, developed for a British rowing world-record attempt, Fears took what it learned from real-world testing and applied it to a watch intended for life on the water. And as an open water swimmer I can think some of the solutions are wonderfully sensible.

Take the case, for example. The entire 40mm Brunswick case has been brushed and blasted, eliminating the polished surfaces found on the standard model. The reasoning is refreshingly straightforward: when you're surrounded by bright sunlight reflecting off the water, shiny surfaces can become surprisingly distracting. It's the sort of detail that sounds obvious once it's been pointed out, yet very few brands seem to have considered it.

The same thinking carries through to the dial, which is finished in a crisp matte white, it's designed to maximise legibility while minimising glare. The Marine Blue chapter ring provides just enough colour to keep things visually interesting without compromising the clean, highly functional layout. When combined with polished blue hands and applied indices, it creates one of the clearest dials Fears has ever produced. I really think It's all rather handsome, in fact this watch just works on one fundamental principle… do the basics really well!

That's important because despite all the talk of functionality, Fears hasn't forgotten that people buy their watches because they enjoy wearing them. The Helmsman manages a difficult balancing act. It feels more purposeful than a standard Brunswick, yet never drifts into the chunky, over-engineered territory that many modern tool watches seem unable to resist - and as a fella with wrists under 7-inches I approve! 

The water resistance has been increased to 200 metres, more than enough for life on deck, in the marina, or for those inevitable moments when a "quick paddle" becomes something rather more adventurous. The textured FKM rubber strap is fully waterproof and colour-matched to the dial, with subtle blue stitching bringing the whole design together nicely.

Now let’s get technical - The power comes from the Swiss-made La Joux-Perret G101 automatic movement, visible through the exhibition case back. It's a calibre that I’ve had hands on with over the last year or so, and I can see that its reputation among enthusiasts is good. To top it off it is complemented in this model by Fears' attractive blue rotor featuring the Bristol Flower motif.

What I particularly enjoy about the Helmsman is that it feels very British in its approach. As a fan of the brand (I may have mentioned this before you know!) that's perhaps what stands out most. Fears could easily have gone down the route of oversized numerals, bright orange accents and enough sailing references to offend an America's Cup team. Instead, they've focused on usability, restraint and thoughtful design.

The Brunswick 40 'Helmsman' ES joins the permanent Fears collection and is available from 19th June 2026, priced at £3,450 including VAT.

• Case: 40mm stainless steel Brunswick case
• Finish: Fully brushed and media-blasted
• Water Resistance: 200m (20 ATM)
• Dial: Matte Bright White with Marine Blue chapter ring
• Movement: La Joux-Perret G101 automatic
• Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
• Strap: White textured FKM rubber strap with blue stitching
• Availability: 19th June 2026
• Price: £3,450 including VAT

For a company best known for elegant everyday watches, the Helmsman feels like an unexpectedly serious… and fun piece of kit that arrives just in time for the summer. Hats off to you Fears, you’ve had an incredible year and I can’t wait to see what you do next!

With a white dial this clean it would be rude not to do a mini strap showcase in this review. With so many summer options on our store, here are a few of our favourite parings with the Helmsman.

The Overton is a suede strap that features a vintage style stitching pattern. This option suits the Helmsman’s versatility from hoisting the rigging to hosting dinners on the top deck, this watch can change character from sporty to smart in just a quick strap change. The Midnight Blue tone of the strap matched the blue chapter ring on the watch brilliantly while the contrast white stitching accents the dial colour. It goes without saying though that this option is not waterproof!

With the image of Mediterranean yachting brought forward by this watch, it seemed fitting to attach it to a Milanese mesh. Specifically, our new Milano Luxe mesh bracelet that features 316L stainless steel, perfect for resisting salt water and corrosion. The length can be adjusted on the fly without the need for tools meaning you can quickly adapt the bracelet to fit over a wetsuit or under a shirt cuff. The mesh weave is also breathable meaning it would be comfortable in the hottest conditions and during hard sailing work.