UK Watch Auctions — Summer 2025 Update

In Part Two of my summer report, I’ll provide an update on the UK watch auction market. So often it is the headlines from the premier Geneva and New York watch auctions which attract all the attention. However, the UK enjoys a thriving watch auction scene albeit one that tends to now focus just on a UK consignment pool for watch sourcing rather than a pan European approach as was the case pre-Brexit. Moreover, auctions are a vital barometer for the pre-owned secondary watch market, including vintage watches, as prices set at auction can flag trends which are relevant for the whole market. Watch auction specialists, Laura Warrilow, Head of Watches at Fellows Auctioneers and Penelope Andrews, the Head of UK Watches Department at Bonhams both give their respective comments on the auction market.

Of course, if you haven’t read Part One, you can do so here.

The period from around 2017 to 2022 saw a rapid expansion of watch auctions both in the UK and internationally. Managing in the post 2022 period has no doubt had its challenges for auction houses but also presented opportunities. It appears that there are still good numbers of bidders about in the UK and a decent range of watches to bid on.

Take for example the rare vintage Omega Chronométre 14k yellow gold wristwatch from 1946 pictured above. This watch has a superb sought after silvered two-tone 'scientific dial’, a calibre. 30 T2 SCRG movement and came complete with its original box and purchase receipt. The watch was offered for auction in February by Gardiner Houlgate based in Corsham, Wiltshire. Bidders definitely liked this piece taking it from a guide estimate of £1200-1800 all the way up to eventual sale at a hammer price of £9800, (not including buyer’s premium).

As noted in this Part Two section I am very pleased to include the views of watch auction specialists, Laura Warrilow, Head of Watches at Fellows Auctioneers and Penelope Andrews, the Head of UK Watches Department at Bonhams. Of note they see some similar trends including the interest in Cartier watches, a slight dip for some Rolex professional models such as the Submariner, but overall a continued enthusiasm for watch auctions. Along with both sets of comments I have featured a few watch highlights as recently sold at auction by Fellows Auctioneers and Bonhams respectively.

For collectors wanting to follow the auction market I have also included a small section on using auction website alerts to help find the watch you are looking for.

Laura Warrilow has recently taken up the role as Head of Watches for Fellows Auctioneers. She has extensive experience working in the secondary watch market as well as the auction sector. I caught up with Laura to get her views on the auction market and to ask what trends she is seeing in recent Fellows’ watch sales. Laura noted that : 

The logistics of trying to follow all the auctions across the UK to find your perfect watch can be a little daunting. For those thinking of buying at auction a useful tip is to set up online alert searches that will help you find examples of the watch model you want when it comes up for auction. You can usually create alerts with individual auction houses by using their websites. This will mean establishing an online account but you will need this anyway if you wish to bid. Fellows Auctioneers for example have an easy to use online alert system using keyword alerts. However if you want to spread the net a little wider you can use one of the aggregator online platforms. Auction aggregator websites list multiple auction houses sales and can be a great way to research the auction market.

I use The Saleroom which is part of the Auction Technology Group who also own the well-respected art and collectables market weekly publication, Antiques Trade Gazette. I have set up multiple alerts via my account on The Saleroom.com website which helps me follow the auction market. Each day I get sent e-mails flagging items coming up for auction related to my alerts. Other examples of aggregator websites include, Barnebys.co.uk, EasyliveAuction.com and Invaluable.com.

Just to note some of these aggregator websites also offer bidding platform services. If you wish to bid via an aggregator website always check first if there are any additional fees charged by the auction house for using these platforms. Plus do remember if you buy at auction there will be a buyer’s premium fee that you will need to pay in addition to the hammer price if your bid is successful.  

Additionally, for those readers who are considering buying at auction I have listed below a selection of UK based auction houses offering watch auctions or combined collectable sales which include watches. Additionally these auction houses note that they have a watch specialist or department.

For example Roseberys London have recently appointed the highly experienced Kate Lacey as their Watches Specialist. While Bonhams are an international auction house I have included them on the list as they offer dedicated London watch auctions. Sotheby’s are also on the list as they have an upcoming online fine watches auction in London between 7-17 December.

Please also read the very informative Q&A interview I conducted with Tom Heap, Deputy Director, Head of Sales and Specialist - Watches at Sotheby’s London in March. Both Christie’s and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo tend to focus more on their international watch auctions especially in Geneva, Hong Kong, and New York. 

But please always remember that rare and interesting watches can pop up at any auction in the country so this list is by no means exhaustive. 

Penelope Andrews is the Head of UK Watches Department for Bonhams. She leads the department's auction sales at both New Bond Street and Knightsbridge. Penny joined Bonhams in 2011 and has been involved in many sales of rare and unique watches including an 18 ^th century Josiah Emery pocket watch that sold for £117,500. Here Penelope gives her thoughts on the current watch auction market:

In summary I hope this article, Part One and Two, helps set out some of the many and varied facets to the current secondary watch market and the UK auction market. As noted the market is constantly evolving influenced by diverse considerations such as economic conditions as well as changing collector tastes. Broadly I believe the market has the fundamentals to weather difficult periods particularly when collectors have so much enthusiasm for the amazing world of watches.

But at the same time we need to also acknowledge the commercial side of the market. Luxury modern pre-owned and vintage watches are sold and traded everyday, some for incredible amounts, and everything has a price. That price is decided for each watch based on how the piece is currently trading on the secondary market and includes factors such as the perception of the watch brand, model status and lore, originality, condition, specification, provenance including papers, box etc, age, watch movement type plus complications, rarity, current market tastes, and desirability. Simple market supply and demand applies as well. If more collectors want a particular watch than the supply allows prices will typically go up. There will also always be a speculative part to the market – money talks especially at the top end of the market!

I like to think optimistically however that the current evolution in tastes such as the continued appreciation for fine watchmaking and design, interest in independents and micro brands, and the re-appreciation of some older pieces now in their ‘neo-vintage’ and vintage periods is primarily collector lead and not speculator driven. Hopefully I can bring you further market updates in the future, in the meantime as always, happy collecting. 

With special thanks to Bonhams, Chrono24, Dreweatts, Fellows Auctioneers, Gardiner Houlgate, Knight Frank, Watchfinder & Co for all their help with this article.

Banner Image — Laura Warrilow, Head of Watches for Fellows Auctioneers examining a gold Rolex wristwatch. ©Photo courtesy of Fellows Auctioneers.