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The British Watchmaking Scene Is In Fine Fettle
If there was still any lingering doubt as to whether or not watchmaking in Britain is booming, we have our answer: it is. The British Watch and Clockmakers Alliance (the institution behind the event’s organisation) put on a show for the ages, which was about as flawlessly executed as a first go-around can be. The only slight issue that needs to be addressed for next year is how to deal with the congestion caused by the massive crowds assembling at the Studio Underd0g booth in search of the pizza watch collaboration with Time & Tide, which is famously only available at in-person events.
Geckota stand at British Watchmaker's Day. Credit: WatchGecko.
Prohibiting the sale of special edition watches created for the event is completely out of the question as it was an enormous source of joy and excitement not only on the day itself but also during the run-up to the event. However, perhaps it might be wise to switch around the positions a bit, with the slightly elevated area to the left of the main hall as you enter occupied this year by Roger Smith and futuristic clock artist Ben Rousseau given over to Richard Benc and his devoted tribe of hungry horophiles, while Roger lines both the back wall and the spot facing it (which was Studio Underd0g’s this year) with a gauntlet of peerless delights.
WatchGecko team Interviewing Alistair Audsley, CEO of Alliance. Credit: WatchGecko.
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As for Rousseau, how about commissioning him to make an enormous turbine-style clock for the back wall, looming above the exhibition like the unblinking eye of Sauron, keeping watch over it all? If the flow of the eager crowds could be slightly improved, the event would run about as flawlessly as possible.
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Ben Rousseau is one to watch (which is ironic because he makes clocks)
Neither the man nor his wares are in any way typical of the industry, but that is to the credit of both. Rousseau’s commanding height and flamboyant dress sense make for an eye-catching presence matched only by his clocks. The concept may be simple but it is novel. Crucially, it is new without being goofy or try-hard. It feels as if it could have been around for a long time, which I believe means it could be. Watchmaking and clockmaking are surprisingly different pursuits but good examples of both share at least one thing: they are comfortingly familiar while challenging conventions. It’s a tricky line to walk and often, as is the case for Rousseau’s pieces, relies on the execution of the concept more than anything else.
Ben Rousseau stand at British Watchmaker's Day. Credit: WatchGecko.
Satisfyingly, Rousseau’s clocks are easy to use, easy to recognise, and easy to love. And it’s worth commending whoever is behind the press imagery issued to journalists before the fair: placing the clock on the wall of a lived-in cruise liner cabin to show how it shines in a real-life (albeit very luxurious) setting was inspired.
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How will Studio Underd0g handle the limelight now the brand has firmly shed its underdog status?
You can read our dedicated article on the Studio Underd0g phenomenon orchestrated by founder, chief designer, communications manager, tea boy, and head chef Richard Benc here. We’ve seen brands emerge and grow rapidly before but none of those case studies seems to fit perfectly with the story Benc is authoring. This is not a Czapek, a Konstantin Chaykin, or an MB&F. Nor is it a Daniel Wellington, MVMT or even Christopher Ward. Perhaps the closest corollary I can call to mind is Johnny Garrett’s William Wood watches, but even that stunning success story seems more bridled than the Studio Underd0g explosion.
Studio Underd0g Stand - British Watchmaker's Day. Credit: Studio Underd0g.
I suppose that comes down to Garett’s tight storytelling and discipline in design; meanwhile, Benc is deliciously unpredictable, with crazy colour combinations comfortably rubbing shoulders with surprisingly sturdy and versatile watch designs like the Series 02. What’s next? I’m happy to say I have no idea but simply can’t wait to see.
Studio Underd0g Special Edition for British Watchmaker's Day - Credit Studio Underd0g
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- $139.00 AUD
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Giles Ellis of Schofield should win the GPHG audacity prize for his packaging
Schofield Stand at British Watchmaker's Day - Credit WatchGecko
If you haven’t seen Ellis’s latest watch “box”, appropriately named “the canister”, seek it out. It’s a fastidiously designed and gloriously well-engineered piece of kit. Despite the fact Schofield was showing its new field watch at a fair for the first time, the canister drew just as much interest itself, reminding people once more that Ellis plays a role like no other in the British watchmaking design space.
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Lindley Hall might very well be the best watch event location of all time
The team at British Watchmaker's Day. Credit: WatchGecko.
I’m not sure a space could be designed better for a watch exhibition. Vaulted glass ceilings flooding the open plan hall with natural light meant that this was the first fair I’d ever attended at which it was possible to take a decent wrist shot. The compact but serviceable mezzanine cafe provided food and drinks, which could be consumed close enough to the action to still feel part of it, without blending the areas at all or getting in the way.
Sophie Baldwin and Rob Nudds at the WatchGecko/ The Real Time Show Stand - Credit WatchGecko
The area off to the side that hosted Smith and Rousseau is a handy addition that could be exploited in different ways going forward if the organisers desire. As I stood there on The Real Time Show and WatchGecko stand, marvelling at the thousands of visitors streaming through the door, I couldn’t remember a better event since the Lucy Cheesewright led halcyon days of Salon QP. This was something special and it is sure to become a staple in the watch industry calendar.
Sign me up for next year!
