Chapter Two of Kern at the 'Summit' of Breitling has began...
Breitling recently descended on London with their debut of Breitling Summit. Designed as a new way for Breitling to communicate with members of the press, retail partners and distributors, the Breitling Summit acted as a sort of follow up to Baselworld with an extended look at some of the latest models to be added to Breitling's range.
Kern has only been CEO of Breitling for around 12 months now, but it's fair to say he has made a big impact including a new marketing direction for the whole brand.
The best example and evidence of this change is in their latest models. at Baselworld we saw a new modern, youthful direction for the Navitimer range under the title of Navitimer 8.
An original example of a Breitling Premier model (PPR/Breitling)
One of the main announcements of the Summit was the new Premier Collection. This new collection sees the rebirth of the Premier name which is now honoured with an impressive collection of truly new watches.
The Premier B01 Chronograph 42
Premier B01 Chronograph 42 with silver dial and black alligator leather strap (PPR/Breitling)
You're currently looking at the new flagship models for the Premier collection. Coming in at 42mm wide, this new Premier B01 is one which is extremely clean and simple. The dial features a bright silver dial acting as the backdrop for the two black sub-dials. The 3 o'clock subdial keeps track of chronograph minutes and the 9 o'clock subdial reads the seconds. A date window appears at 6 o'clock keeping an uber clean aesthetic. A red-tipped chronograph hand and red tachymeter text add a dash of colour to the piece. The simple 'Breitling B' logo sits proudly on the dial of this in-house Caliber 01 powered chronograph.
Premier B01 Chronograph 42 with a Blue dial (PPR/Breitling)
A blue edition is also available with a sunburst blue dial finish, dark grey sub-dials and tachymeter.
Quite simply, I'm a fan of this new Premier B01. It's a nice and simple chronograph with wide appeal executed very well. The inclusion of the date and case size is right on trend with the current market (Thank you for moving away from 44mm Mr Kern). This is a solid addition to the Breitling line up with room to grow and expand.
Premier Chronograph 42
The Breitling Premier Chronograph 42 in Blue (PPR/Breitling)
Breitling continue to build on its accurate timekeeping legacy with another chronograph joining the party. Premier Chronograph 42 takes everything the B01 does and simply adds to it with the addition of a chronograph hour hand at 6 o'clock, the minute hand has moved to 12 and the second's subdials keeps its place at 9. Once again we see a date window at 6 o'clock framed well in that chronograph hour hand and the Breitling branding moves to 3 o'clock.
The Premier Chronograph 42 once again features a 42mm stainless steel case and is available with either a blue or a black dial featuring a white tachymeter ring with a black scale. You will be able to order your new Premier Chronograph with a choice of either an alligator leather or nubuck strap with white stitching or a stainless-steel bracelet.
The Breitling Premier Chronograph 42 in Black (PPR/Breitling)
Given the choice between this and the B-01, I think the B-01 wins it, however, I do enjoy the addition of a silver tachymeter here and a wider choice of straps is nice to see.
The Breitling Premier Automatic 40
Breitling Automatic Premier 40 (PPR/Breitling)
Next, we have the Breitling Premier Automatic 40 and what looks to be the first signs of Breitling going further than just bringing the Premier name to these new models. With its sub seconds at 6 o clock, bright white seconds track and the lack of no date, this model is clearly designed to hark back to Breitling's heritage in a modern way. Even the Breitling B is now seen in a new gold colourway. It's sticking to some core DNA traits to bring a model to the range that looks to open up to new Breitling customers. Coming in at 40mm wide and with three dial options, Blue, silver or Anthracite grey this new watch looks to be their attempt at competition for the likes of Rolex, Omega and Tudor priced at £3,600.
Personally, I find the Premier Automatic 40 to be trying too hard. A contrasting seconds track complete with the 60 finished in red along with the second's hand tip also in red feels somewhat out of place on this simple model. Let's hope some hands-on time can really solidify this watches identity.
The Breitling Premier Automatic Day & Date 40
Breitling Premier Automatic Day & Date 40 (PPR/Breitling)
Much like the Premier Chronograph and B-01, this Day & Date models looks to build on where the Automatic left off. Similar features to the Automatic are present on the Day & Date with hands, indices, seconds track and dial configuration feeling very uncluttered. Once again we see the addition of red to the second's track '60' and the tip of the second's hand, yet it's combined with rose gold accents. The Premier Automatic Day & Date 40 watches are available with either a black or a silver dial and feature either a stainless-steel bracelet, a nubuck or alligator leather strap with white stitching.
To me, this Day & Date isn't necessarily doing anything wrong (okay maybe the addition of red) but it's not really doing anything that appealing to me at the moment. Coming in at around the same price as the Automatic, however, is a good thing. Apart from the case size, this watch doesn't feel that different to the 43mm TransOcean Day-Date from the 'Old Breitling', especially as that gold B is still making an appearance.
Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Bentley British Racing Green
Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Bentley British Racing Green with a British racing green leather strap (PPR/Breitling)
For me, this is the best release for Breitling at their first ever Breitling Summit. Celebrating Breitling and Bentley Motors long-standing partnership, the flagship Premier model receives the Bentley Motor treatment. Previously collaborative models were presented in separate 'Breitling for Bentley' collection, this model and future Bentley limited editions will be introduced in Breitling’s existing watch families, further emphasizing Breitling seeing the value in this collaboration.
Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Bentley British Racing Green with a British racing green leather strap (PPR/Breitling)
Further features that distinguish this watch from all others are the engraved plate inscribed with the Bentley name on the left side of the case, inspired by the dashboard of the supercharged 1929 “Blower” Bentley, and the transparent caseback that is enhanced with a metalized Bentley logo. Once again we see the 3 o'clock subdial keeping track of chronograph minutes and the 9 o'clock subdial reads the seconds. A date window appears at 6 o'clock keeping an uber clean aesthetic in black, assisting the watches balanced design with tachymeter and sub-dials. A red-tipped chronograph hand and red tachymeter at a dash of colour to the piece. The simple 'Breitling B' logo sits proudly on the dial of this in-house Caliber 01 powered chronograph.
The engraved plate inscribed with the Bentley name on the left side of the Premier B01 Chronograph 42 case (PPR/Breitling)
This is my favourite pick of the bunch due to the refreshed feel it gives Breitling. I think the other examples we have looked at are rather simple and straightforward...almost predictable. Whereas this addition has just that little bit more character and the added bonus of it being a collaborative piece with Bentley.
Navitimer 1 B03 Rattrapante 45 Boutique Edition
Navitimer 1 B03 Rattrapante 45 Boutique Edition (PPR/Breitling)
It's not just the Premier range that was announced at the Summit with a new Navitimer 1 B03 Rattrapante 45 Boutique Edition being announced. Housed in a big, bold 45mm stainless-steel case, it is distinguished by a Stratos Gray dial, while its hour markers and hour and minute hands are coated with Super-LumiNova®.
Superocean Héritage II Chronograph 44 Outerknown
Breitling’s new Superocean Héritage II Chronograph 44 Outerknown (PPR/Breitling)
Breitling’s new Superocean Héritage II Chronograph 44 Outerknown celebrates the brand’s partnership with Outerknown, a sustainable clothing company committed to improving environmental conditions for the entire planet. The watch features a first for Breitling: the strap is crafted from ECONYL® yarn, an innovative material created from nylon waste, one source of which is fishing nets from oceans around the world. Like Breitling, Outerknown works with Ocean conservancy to raise awareness of the problem of marine waste and to motivate individuals to take action to clean up the oceans. Although this watch isn't for me, you can't argue with the ethical drive behind of this watch.
Premier B01 Chronograph 42 with silver dial and black alligator leather strap (PPR/Breitling)
Summit Summary
The Breitling Summit 2018 (PPR/Breitling)
My overall thoughts of Breitling's first Summit are positive. I think Kern has continued to create a range of watches with a lot more mass appeal design wise as well as appealing to markets they didn't really have an impact in previously. The building blocks of a new solid brand range have been placed. Whether you're a fan or not, I think the next few years are going to be very interesting for Breitling. As a fan of Kern's current impact, I'll eagerly be waiting to see Breitling's next move.