I’ve always taken a great deal of pride in having an eye for the next big thing. When Straum burst onto the scene, taking over Instagram with a vengeance with a series of intriguing paid ads, my interest was more than piqued.
I thought at that moment that this new independent brand out of Norway showed an incredible touch and sensitivity when it came to the design of its first model, the Opphav. A couple of weeks after seeing it online for the first time, I had production samples in my hands. Turning them over, scrutinising them for flaws as is my duty, my respect for the designers, Lasse Roxrud Farstad and Øystein Helle Husby was compounded.
Two industrial designers who had the technical skills and artistic flare one might expect for men with their experience had leapt into the watchmaking fray and fired a terrifying warning shot across the bow of all entry-level makers hoping to offer original design and excellent execution at an accessible price.
And yet the real source of my excitement was the strong belief that Straum had not yet reached the top of the mountain with the Opphav. The concept was superb. The ideas had been lifted off the page and brought to life in the metal as well as I’ve seen at that price point. But the scope for minor refinements to be made was still there.
Desperate to work with the guys that I personally and professionally regard as two of the most natural watch designers to ever do it, I got in touch with some feedback (and the suggestion that we collaborate on a special edition model together for Fratello, tied into a voyage across the Arctic sea, in search of the summit of the globe’s northernmost stratovolcano, Beerenberg, the stoic sentry that keeps watch over the isolated island that is Jan Mayen).
As the epilogue to the short film we made of our adventure stated, “When we first discussed visiting Jan Mayen, it’s safe to say we didn’t know what we were getting ourselves into.” That turned out to be an understatement, but the experience was one that bonded us together and to the watches like no other.
Our goal? To sail from Svalbard to Jan Mayen, a journey that would take close to five days, and to study the almost alien landscape, fauna, and flora of that volcanic isle. Those textures and colours would underpin the collection, with dial patterns inspired by towering arctic waves, the behaviour of ice and snow in the near-constant wind of that rocky outcrop, and the crater of Beerenberg itself. More recently, images we took of the glacial caves over which we trekked on our journey towards Haakon VII Toppen (the unmarked and barely identifiable summit of Beerenberg) would be commemorated in the Glacial Rift limited edition (which is currently sold out online but can be seen in real life at in-person events).
But as beautiful as these dials are, what separates Straum from other dial-first brands like, for example, Grand Seiko or anOrdain, is the robustness of the cases and bracelets. These external components have been designed to survive the harsh environments that had inspired their precious cargo and to look even better after being beaten and scratched to high heaven than they do straight out of the box.
This all came down to finding the right manufacturing partners. Choosing experts that could execute the very precise details required to make a watch that is at once illustrious and indestructible. Obviously, at least 100 meters of water resistance was necessary. A screw-down crown, too. Making that crown big enough to be operated while wearing gloves was a smart move, but protecting it with slightly flared case flanks to compensate for the increase in size from the Opphav model became essential.
Choosing the angles of the flanks, the height and pitch of the double domed crystal and how it interacts with the chamfered edge of the bezel to catch and deflect impacts away from the body of the watch. The seamless integration of the bracelet and, more recently, the strap adapter that enables Straum wearers to swap out the standard integrated bracelet for a fabric or leather alternative. The Opphav had used Sellita movements; the Jan Mayen collection employs LJP G101 calibres because they offer a healthy 68-hour power reserve while running at 28,800 vph.
These are small considerations that go into creating a fully realised whole. There are hundreds of them to be made during the design process and thanks to Straum’s willingness to work openly with me, I was able to witness them firsthand.
And so I am bound to this watch collection and the team behind it in a deeply personal manner. As such, I would encourage you to seek out a Straum watch in real life (if you feel my bias may be too strong), and let us know whether you think I’m talking sense or if I’ve been blinded by my love for the brand, its concept, and the execution therefore.
If you’re not located near any upcoming events at which Straum will be present, talk to your local retailer and encourage them to bring the brand on board so you’re able to try them all on at your leisure. With the welcome addition of the strap adapter, a watch whose 39 mm already made it suitable for many wrists, just became a whole lot more wearable.
To get an idea of some of the combos available, head over to the brand’s Instagram page (@straum) and check out the sumptuous pairing of the Jan Mayen Arctic Blue (pictured in this article) and the yellow fabric strap the brand has chosen to showcase the new adapter kit (it’s killer).
Full disclosure: I don’t just love these watches; I worked closely with Straum on their development during my time at Fratello as the Dutch media platform’s Partnerships Manager. Since setting up my consultancy, I’ve continued to collaborate with this up-and-coming Norwegian brand. I am very pleased to have had the chance to present to you the Straum Jan Mayen Artic Blue automatic watch in this article.
