Oracle Time have been busy this year. The great success that was Hands on Horology, a collaboration watch with the historic brand, Ball, and now a new collaboration watch has just been announced. This time with a much newer brand, non-other than British based creatives Isotope. This is the Isotope x OT Mercury Vitreous and it is just as bonkers as you would expect.
Isotope made a name for themselves in the British watch industry by being unique in their design language and maintaining a high level of quality when producing their watches. The brand launched in 2016 with Husband-and-Wife team José and Joana Miranda and focused on producing high quality watches with exceptionally creative designs. Drawing inspiration from brutalism, pop culture, and art moderne, Isotope have solidified their position as a brand that stands by themselves in design and have been an integral part of the British Watchmakers Alliance.
This watch features a vitreous enamel dial. Vitreous enamel is a glass that’s fused with a metal substrate at extremely high temperatures to create a very durable glassy surface that can be combined with pigments to create a wide array of colours. The dials in this limited edition begin with a leaf silver base which is then built-up layer by layer at those extremely high temperatures to achieve a great depth and vibrancy.
There are two colours available for this limited run, and both are just as bonkers as each other. The first is Vitreous Orange, a hue inspired by molten rock. And this volcanic theme is highlighted by the black DLC case. A contrast that accentuates the orange dial and allows it to pop.
The other is Vitreous Green, a bright green described as spearmint by the Isotope team. Complimented by a sand blasted stainless steel case this is the refreshing counterpart to the orange variant.
We as watch enthusiast have fallen back in love with stone dials and the beautiful colours. I feel like these enamel dials capture the beauty of stone but offer an elevated level of storytelling; an application of a craft to create something beautiful. This offers the wearer a chance to share this story rather than just stating ‘yeah it’s a stone dial because it’s pretty’.
Those beautiful dials are kept visible through a domed and anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal which has the Isotope alien head logo printed on the crystal itself. A nice attention to detail that allows the dial to be uninterrupted.
Of the two dial colours the green is my favourite. The minty tone and texture are delicious to look at and the sandblasted case compliments this dial nicely. If I’m being completely honest the orange was a little bit underwhelming in person. I think the shade of orange was slightly too dark when compared to the green. It looks great in the images and the DLC case helps the orange to pop, and the colour theme is very much getting me ready for Halloween.
The cases are 38mm in diameter and only 10mm thick. The lug-to-lug is 44.5mm, perfect proportions for me. The cases are water resistant to 100m, and both come on an FKM rubber strap, so this is perfectly set up to be your everyday watch. These watches wear beautifully on me, and I am a big fan of the slimness of the cases. The way the case edges sweep into the lug design is fascinating to look at. Such a unique design but one that still has some elements of traditional watch design. The sloped bezel and two-hand configuration make this wear like a dressier watch despite the rubber strap and bright dial colours.
The rubber strap is cut to size and has a leaf spring butterfly clasp. A design that I am a fan of as it provides comfort and security. The rubber is also nicely textured, and the clasps are either sandblasted or DLC coated to match the respective cases. Another little attention to detail is the Isotope logo is embedded in each of the perforations on the underside of the strap. Very creative and something you wouldn't notice on first look.
Powering these is the familiar Calibre I-7, a modified ETA Peseux 7001 that Isotope have previously used in the mercury line. It’s a hand wound movement with 42 hours of power reserve and beats at 3Hz. These movements feel wonderful to wind and operate. Time setting is precise, and the gear ratios allows for quick adjustments if your watch was to run out of power. They are also beautifully decorated with engraved text and contrasting brushing and are visible through a sapphire exhibition case back.
Due to the extreme complexity of producing these enamel dials, only 25 pieces for each colour will be made. This is an extremely limited run, making these some of the rarest watches Isotope have ever produced. Priced at £2,775 they offer something unique and of high-quality craftsmanship for less than a Tudor Black Bay 54!
Final Thoughts
Overall, I applaud Isotope and Oracle Time for having been able to combine their creative talents and produce these two watches that are fun, bold and unique. While these watches are expensive, I do feel that the price is justified. And even though they are statement pieces for sure, they are also capable of living with you every day. Wearable, creative, and high quality, I am very impressed with this collaboration.
Isotope x OT Mercury Vitreous
Technical Specifications
Movement: Calibre I-7 (based on ETA Peseux 7001), Swiss Made, hand-wound, 17 jewels, 42-hour power reserve, 3Hz
Case Dimensions: 38mm diameter × 10mm thickness, 44.5mm lug-to-lug
Water Resistance: 100m / 10 ATM
Crystal: Domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating
Strap: Quick-release FKM rubber with deployant clasp
Price: £2,775 (Inc. VAT), limited to 25 pieces per colour
