California dials are a thing of mystery, there is much controversy about where the name came from and who first came up with it. Panerai for years claimed it was them, however, it wasn’t until 1944 that they had their first California dialled watch that was made exclusively for the Royal Italian Navy. These special watches were a military secret at the time, so were never made available to the general public.
Isotope Hydrium California - Credit WatchGecko
However, predating Panerai, in May of 1941 Rolex first applied for the patent for these dials, and their first model was released in 1942 with the 3134-2. Before we get into the California name, let’s look at what a California dial is. There are several theories, but this is not a history lesson, so let’s look at a couple that have been thrown about.
One theory posits that the dial's design, featuring Roman numerals in the upper portion and Arabic numerals in the lower section, served as a practical aid for interpreting time in conditions of poor visibility. The Roman numerals indicating the upper part of the watch could provide crucial orientation cues, particularly in situations of low visibility, high stress, and while breathing pure oxygen.
Isotope Hydrium California on Flat Highley Genuine Leather Watch Strap - Credit WatchGecko
- Regular price
- $140.00 AUD
- Regular price
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- Sale price
- $140.00 AUD
- Unit price
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- Regular price
- $140.00 AUD
- Regular price
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- Sale price
- $140.00 AUD
- Unit price
- per
- Regular price
- $140.00 AUD
- Regular price
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- Sale price
- $140.00 AUD
- Unit price
- per
While it may seem obvious that when wearing a watch on the wrist, the top is the outward-facing direction, in extreme circumstances, any form of assistance is invaluable. It's evident that combat divers would not opt for such a dial design solely for aesthetic reasons, further underscoring its functional significance in adverse conditions.
Indeed, there are alternate theories regarding the purpose of this dial design, suggesting that it may have been purely aesthetic rather than functional. Some speculate that Rolex adopted this style as an expression of the prevailing Art Deco design trends of the time, deemed attractive during that era. While the debate persists, it's possible that the dial's unique composition was driven more by stylistic preferences than by practical considerations.
Isotope Hydrium California - Credit WatchGecko
Initially, these dials were known as “Error Proof” or “High Visibility” dials as they were designed for divers, to help with their underwater timings, they also predated watches with a bezel, which we know and are much more familiar with. It was during the 1970s, as the vintage watch boom gained momentum, Kirk Rich, a dial refinisher based in Los Angeles, crafted a series of distinctive dials with a unique half design. These dials quickly captured the attention of collectors and enthusiasts, gathering widespread popularity. Such was the demand for Rich's creations that numerous vintage watch stores across California began sending their timepieces to him for his signature touch. This association led dealers and collectors alike to affectionately dub watches featuring these dials as "California" dials, cementing their place in horological history.
Now we’re aware of the dial’s name and history, let’s look at this very distinctive watch from Isotope, the Hydrium California. The first thing that you notice when you put the watch on is the case. Its smooth non-reflective finish comes about from the fine bead blasting it receives during production, giving it a super matte look. The case design, although familiar to many dive watches, looks somehow different.
Isotope Hydrium California - Credit WatchGecko
The stainless steel 40m x 48mm x 14.9mm size too feels extremely well proportioned and sits nicely on the wrist. The pronounced 120-click unidirectional bezel has a thin glossy black insert that features a soft cream diving scale making it reminiscent of vintage divers from another time. The zero marker uses Isotope’s lacrimal logo, which has also been repeated on the crown and case back, another nice design highlight. Offering a 1000ft/300m water resistance, this watch is good to go for more than just bath time.
The screw-down crown has a slight flair on either side, giving a subtle hint of a crown guard. The display case back uses a sapphire crystal that mimics the main one over the dial. This for many will be the talking point as its grained black texture is almost tarmac-like. There is, of course, that blend of both Roman and Arabic numerals, that’s synonymous with a California dial.
Isotope Hydrium California - Credit WatchGecko
The hands, which feature a noteworthy i design have an almost unfinished texture to them which makes them stand out. These and all the applied numerals have a Super-LumiNova filling giving this quite a presence in low light. Although the dial has several different colours adorning it, some may baulk, as they don’t match very well. This doesn’t bother me personally; it just adds to the intrigue.
The movement used is the Landeron 24 automatic, which beats at 28,800vph and offers a 40-hour power reserve. This also has a smorgasbord of finishes to it, hence the display back, showing off the blued screws and perlage, as well as a striped signed rotor. Thankfully, this is a no-date watch, so keeps your eye fixed on the dial without interruption.
Isotope Hydrium California - Credit WatchGecko
The Hydrium is available with either a 22mm black tropic FKM strap or a suede tan leather one, both work extremely well. These also both offer quick-release spring bars to aid with strap changing.
This is not a slim watch but does wear well and is extremely comfortable on the wrist. It’s the dial and case combination for me that works the best. José has again added another great watch to his ever-expanding range. It’s the subtle idiosyncrasies that make this watch stand out, from the case finishing to the red Hydrium CA on the dial. It’s been very well-considered and is both bold and playful, I for one like this a lot.
Specifications
- Case: 40mm diameter x 14.9mm height - 48mm lug-to-lug - stainless steel (micro blasted matte finish).
- Bezel: Unidirectional rotating bezel with black inlay and beige diving scale - double-domed AR sapphire.
- Crystal: Screw-down crown - sapphire exhibition case back.
- Water Resistance: 300m water resistance.
- Dial: Grained matte black dial - white railway track chapter ring filled with Super-LumiNova - Isotope “i” hands filled with Super-LumiNova - applied Roman and Arabic numerals, luminous - central hours, minutes, and seconds.
- Movement: Landeron 24 calibre (Swiss, ETA and Soprod alternative) - automatic - 25 jewels - 28,800vph.
- Power Reserve: 40 hours - accuracy rated at +/-12 seconds per day - decorated with custom rotor.
- Strap: Black tropic-style FKM rubber strap with pin buckle - optional tan suede leather strap with pin buckle - also available with both strap options for £1248.00
- Availability: limited edition of 200 pieces - directly available from Isotope.
- Price: £1080.00 with FKM rubber or £1200.00 with leather.
