Founders' Friday - A Conversation With James Fields of Swan & Edgar

Swan & Edgar is a brand built on the quiet power of British watchmaking heritage, reinterpreted for a new generation of enthusiasts. Its story is deeply personal, shaped by the Fields family’s longstanding connection to horology and a belief that timepieces should carry meaning beyond their mechanics. This sense of legacy runs through every design, lending the collection a considered, narrative-driven character.

The name itself is derived from London’s historic Swan & Edgar department store, once a landmark of craftsmanship and refinement in the capital’s West End. That spirit endures today, not as nostalgia, but as a foundation for creating watches that feel both rooted and relevant.

To discover more about this brand I sent James Fields the fifteen questions that define this series and give us a look behind the scenes in the watch industry.

A Zeitner Commando watch from my father’s brand, gifted to me on my 13 ^th birthday. It was more than a watch; it was something my father had designed. Wearing it felt like carrying a piece of his legacy on my wrist. It ignited much deeper exploration.

I left my career in investment banking and turned up at my father’s doorstep with my suitcase and a proposal to be a wholesale partner for his brand. He thought I had lost my mind, considering he had only just re-started in the industry following a hiatus.

Working in investment banking taught me discipline, intensity and accountability at the highest level - lessons I still carry with me. But over time I felt a strong pull toward building something of my own. Jim Carrey’s line, “You can fail at what you don’t want, so you might as well take a chance on doing what you love,” resonated. It wasn’t about dissatisfaction; it was about recognising a stronger calling to create something that reflected my own values and ambitions.

Edouard Meylan due to similarly transitioning from the business world to watches alongside his distinctive yet playful design philosophy. Richard Benc for amplifying counterculture marketing in horology. Ming Thein for truly innovative creations - visually and mechanically.

The lead time from inception to launch, it’s very long. Each sample rejection extends this by around 4 months. Rejections can include very minor but meaningful deviations from the project vision. You are often making decisions that defy commercial logic, an essential sacrifice in creating an enduring brand.

Balance, intentionality and relevance. The first two are self-explanatory, however relevance is often misunderstood. I don’t mean what’s trending or fashionable. I mean relevance to the brand’s values and identity. This makes a watch timeless for me.

Reflection. We spend considerable time reflecting on who we are – our values, history and DNA. We avoid seemingly interesting projects unless it is cohesive with who we are as a brand and team collectively.

The gold-plated sector on the Horizon. It encompasses deep British cultural and horological significance – reflecting the RAF sector clocks used in the Battle of Britain. It is also 20 times thicker than most gold-plated components on watches which resulted in significant cost challenges that we absorbed.

We think deeply about the long-term impact and vision for Swan & Edgar over the coming decades. The challenge is to evolve coherently, ensuring each new watch deepens the brand’s essence.

The resurgence of the British watchmaking.

Berneron – for committing fully to their projects irrespective of outsized risks and purposefully reimagining complications.

Aimé Leon Dore – not because of their design, but for building a coherent cultural universe around their brand.

It’s a question of appropriateness for the watch and wearer. Mechanical for emotion and mastery, quartz for precision.

Perpetual calendar – complex, for practicality’s sake. A value I admire.

Don’t do it! Although I appreciate his perspective on the demands and risks associated with building a watch brand, for me that is what makes it worthwhile.

Ask me again in 40 years to see if I should have listened to my father!