The Future of American Watchmaking: 7 Microbrands to Know

You know the saying: everything’s bigger in America—cars, sandwiches, opinions… and increasingly, the ambitions of independent watchmakers. While Switzerland continues to be the spiritual home of horology and British watch brands are increasingly making a statement in the industry, there’s a growing tribe of makers across the U.S. doing things their own way—quietly (and sometimes not-so-quietly) crafting timepieces with guts, grit, and garage-born soul.

I’m Chris, WatchGecko’s new writer based in the land of baseball, barbecue, and a baffling number of time zones. And what better way to kick things off than with a personal list of seven American microbrands that deserve a spot on your radar, whether you're in London, Los Angeles, or somewhere in between.

This isn’t just a roundup of the usual suspects. These are brands that, for one reason or another, stood out to me: maybe it’s their design language, their commitment to in-house manufacturing, or just the fact that they’re bold enough to do things their own way in a market dominated by giants.

So grab a coffee (or a craft beer if it's that kind of day), and let’s meet a few American indie brands worth your time—literally (in no particular order).

Let's start with Oak & Oscar. If you’re not already familiar, let me introduce you to one of the most quietly confident brands in American watchmaking. Based in Chicago and founded by Chase Fancher in 2015, Oak & Oscar was born from a familiar story: a guy stuck in a corporate job who decided he’d rather build watches than sit through one more spreadsheet meeting. But what Chase built is more than a personal escape plan—it’s a brand rooted in thoughtful design, top-tier execution, and a deep respect for both craftsmanship and community.

The watches themselves? Clean, legible, and designed with intention. Whether it’s a field watch or a chronograph, every Oak & Oscar piece feels like it was made to be worn—not worshipped under a glass dome. They’re modern without being trendy, classic without being boring, and they tend to sneak up on you. You don’t always realize how well-designed they are until you’ve lived with one.

My pick from the brand: The Atwood in White Panda 

I’m lumping these two brands together because Colorado Watch Company is owned by Vortic—but don’t get it twisted, each one marches to the beat of its own (very American-made) drum.

Vortic made its name by rescuing some of the literal millions of American pocket watches produced and sold around the turn of the 20th century. They buy them in bulk, service the movements, and rehouse them in custom wristwatch cases milled right in their own Colorado factory. The end result? Big, bold conversation starters that feel like time-traveling heirlooms. And if you happen to have Grandpa’s old pocket watch collecting dust in a drawer, they’ll work their magic on that too.

Colorado Watch Company, Vortic’s sibling brand, takes that vintage spirit and builds on it—literally. While Vortic breathes new life into old movements, Colorado Watch Company is all about starting fresh. They’re on a mission to bring traditional watchmaking back to the U.S., and they’re doing a solid job of it. In fact, 85% of the total build cost of their watches comes from American-made components, and they’re refreshingly transparent about where every piece comes from.

The bezel, dial, case, caseback, and crown? All Colorado-born, probably enjoying the mountain air and a craft beer. The movement is designed and assembled by FTS in Arizona using globally sourced parts—because even great engines need a passport these days. Flat sapphire crystals hail from New Hampshire, while the domed ones and the gaskets take the long-haul flight in from Asia. It’s a watch with a truly international pedigree… but still knows how to wear flannel and vote local.

My pick from the brand: The GCT - DLC Black Case - Machined Dial 

Based in Tampa Bay, Prevail Watches have taken the traditional military field watch, given it a double espresso, and launched it into the stratosphere. Their breakout models, the Onward Future Field Watch “Tactical” and “Explorer,” designed by the ever-talented Matt Smith-Johnson, are not your granddad’s dusty old field watches. They’re quartz-powered, built tough, and styled like they’ve time-traveled from a sleeker timeline. Yes, they’re bold. Yes, they’re fun. But under all that attitude, they still hit the marks of a classic time-only tool watch.

What really sets Prevail apart, though, is their ethos. They’re veteran-owned, donate to non-profits that support veteran health, and—brace yourselves—they refuse to glorify war to sell a watch. Imagine that. A military-inspired brand with integrity. Some other companies should be taking notes... preferably with a Prevail strapped to their wrist.

My pick from the brand: Onward Future Field Watch Explorer in Compass Green

Cameron Weiss is one of those guys who makes you wonder what you’ve been doing with your life. He’s a Swiss-trained American watchmaker (yes, those exist), holds a WOSTEP certification, and cut his teeth at Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet—basically the Ivy League of horology.

In 2013, he decided to ditch the prestige of Switzerland for something even bolder: starting his own watch company. Weiss Watch Company was born, and today Cameron runs the whole operation out of Nashville, Tennessee—where the watches are assembled, and many components, like the cases, are milled and finished with enough precision to make a CNC machine blush.

Weiss isn’t just making watches; he’s quietly leading the charge to bring real-deal mechanical watchmaking back to American soil. It’s like if Abraham Lincoln and a Swiss watchmaker had a baby… and that baby grew up to machine bridges and bevels by hand.

My pick from the brand: *Limited Edition* Titanium Bead-Blasted 42mm Standard Issue Field Watch: Ceramic Green 

Whether you’re fueled by caffeine (guilty) or just tired of seeing the same watch designs on every wrist, Brew Watch Co. is a refreshing change of pace. Founded by industrial designer Johnathan Ferrer and based in New York City, Brew draws its inspiration from coffee culture—yes, really. From espresso timer subdials to case shapes that feel straight out of a retro café, the design language is intentional, playful, and surprisingly refined. It’s one of those rare brands that makes you smile without sacrificing substance.

Brew’s lineup leans mostly on quartz movements, which keeps things accessible without compromising on design or build quality. The finishing, the casework, the dial details—they punch well above their weight class. And for those looking for a bit more mechanical soul, Brew has also begun rolling out automatic (and recently Swiss mechanical) models, still priced comfortably under $1,000. In an industry full of serious faces and safe bets, Brew feels like a deep breath—and maybe a double shot of something bold.

My pick from the brand: The Retrograph Espresso 

If it’s not obvious by now, I’ve got a soft spot for brands that stand for something bigger than just selling watches—and Trip Henderson of Lōcī is doing exactly that. He’s built a brand rooted in appreciating and protecting the world around us. While Lōcī is still the new kid on the horological block, with just its debut collection out, the mission is clear: with each new collection, Lōcī will donate to an environmental organization tied to the natural landscape that inspired the designs.

The first line, the Pacific Coast Highway Collection—featuring the Big Sur, Monterey Bay, and Surfrider Beach models—donates 10% of each sale to the Surfrider Foundation. That’s a California-based nonprofit fighting the good fight to protect our oceans, waves, and beaches, so we can all continue pretending we know how to surf.

And look, I’m not here to climb up on a soapbox (those things aren’t waterproof), but climate change is very real, and it’s not exactly doing subtle things anymore. So if a watch brand wants to help preserve some of the beauty we’ve got left, I say that’s more than worth supporting.

Oh—and the watches themselves? Genuinely great. The PCH Collection is packed with sharp, dynamic dials and the kind of build quality that makes them perfect for everyday wear. Plus, Trip offers them with either a Swiss automatic movement for $895 or a Swiss quartz for $595—so you can save the planet and have enough left for tacos after.

My pick from the brand: Pacific Coast Highway - Big Sur (Swiss Quartz) 

If the United States had crown jewels of horology, RGM would be the glowing ruby right at the center. Founded in 1992 by Roland G. Murphy, RGM is as close as it gets to American haute horlogerie. Murphy trained at the Bowman Technical School in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, and then took things to the next level with formal training at WOSTEP in Switzerland. That blend of American spirit and Swiss precision shows up in everything RGM does.

It’s hard to overstate RGM’s influence. For many collectors and aspiring watchmakers, the brand has become a North Star for what’s possible in American watchmaking. In a sea of microbrands and design studios importing everything but the packaging, RGM actually makes watches. Not just assembles—makes. We’re talking in-house calibers, guilloché dials cut on antique rose engines, and hand-finished cases, all from a workshop tucked into the rolling hills of Mount Joy, Pennsylvania. Yes, Mount Joy. Even the name sounds handmade.

Take their Caliber 801, for example—a true in-house movement that doesn’t just show off RGM’s technical skill but waves the flag for American horology. Or the Model 222-RR, which revives the spirit of early American railroad watches with a sense of reverence and craft you’d expect more from Glashütte than Pennsylvania. RGM doesn’t just celebrate watchmaking history; it continues it—quietly, obsessively, and with all the polish of a brand that knows exactly what it stands for.

In short: if you ever doubted that world-class watchmaking could happen on U.S. soil, RGM is the brand that will change your mind—and then some.

My pick from the brand: The Caliber 20