Bell & Ross BR-05: 36mm vs 40mm – Which Should You Choose?

Bell & Ross are one of those brands you either spot instantly or overlook entirely. Known for their distinctive square cases, rugged aviation DNA, and that no-nonsense industrial aesthetic, their designs have always leaned large. For many enthusiasts with smaller wrists, this meant admiring from afar rather than wearing with comfort. But that’s changing. At Watches & Wonders this year, Bell & Ross unveiled something that many have been hoping for—a genuinely wearable, smaller option in the BR 05 line.

Enter the Bell & Ross BR 05 36mm, debuting alongside its larger sibling, the 40mm BR 05 Blue Steel. Both watches carry the unmistakable hallmarks of Bell & Ross design, but the way they wear couldn’t be more different.

The BR 05 36mm comes in at just 8.5mm thick, with a lug-to-lug measurement of 42.8mm. Thanks to its integrated bracelet and smart proportions, it wears flatter and more comfortably than the dimensions might suggest. On a wrist measuring around 6.2 inches, it hugs the contours with ease, creating a sleek, low-profile look that doesn’t sacrifice wrist presence.

Powering the 36mm model is the BR-CAL.329 automatic movement with a 54-hour power reserve, tucked behind a closed caseback. It’s housed in a stainless steel case, finished with a sophisticated mix of brushing and polishing that enhances its angular silhouette while still playing nicely with the soft curves of the case profile. A sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating and 100 metres of water resistance round out the practical side of the spec sheet.

Colour options are plentiful too. The version featured here is Ice Blue—a clean, versatile shade that shifts between silver and pale blue depending on the light. It’s joined by black, grey, and even a mother-of-pearl dial, offering something for nearly every taste.

With soft pastels becoming more common across the watch world, it’s refreshing to see this ice blue option take a more refined approach. It doesn’t scream for attention like some of the louder Tiffany-inspired dials out there. Instead, it plays with light in a way that’s elegant and surprisingly dynamic. In some conditions, it reads almost silver; in others, a cool, saturated blue takes over.

Legibility is right on brand for Bell & Ross. The applied indices are filled with solid lume, making this an easy one to read in low light. Better still, the lume is fun—vibrant, bright, and well executed.

What really impresses is the way Bell & Ross have preserved their tool-watch identity while refining the proportions. The result leans more sporty than dressy, but stops short of being too casual. It’s a smart sweet spot that opens up the collection to a wider audience.

As with many integrated-bracelet sports watches, the BR 05 36mm lacks micro-adjustment. While the bracelet looks great and wears flat, a tool-free sizing option would go a long way for comfort and flexibility. The crown, while proportional, feels a little small, and the addition of crown guards doesn’t help accessibility.

The other notable omission is a minute track. For a watch with a sportier look, it’s a slightly odd choice. Setting the time precisely becomes a guessing game unless you land perfectly on a 5-minute interval. That might be forgivable on a pure dress watch, but less so here.

Then there’s the closed caseback. For those who enjoy seeing the mechanics at work, this might be a letdown—especially when the 40mm version offers a more decorative open caseback with a star-inspired rotor design. Why not offer both the small and large models the same visual treat?

The 36mm and 40mm models clearly share DNA, but they’re better described as siblings than twins. Both offer the same case design, dial layout, and sunburst finishes. However, the 40mm version includes a date window and open caseback—two features absent from the smaller watch. While understandable from a design and movement integration perspective, this feels like a wider industry trend: when downsizing, brands often lose a bit of functionality. It raises the question of whether a smaller movement with a date complication would have pushed the price point too far.

Bell & Ross have made a clever move with the BR 05 36mm. It retains the brand’s strong visual identity while softening the overall feel into something more wearable, more versatile, and ultimately more appealing to a wider range of collectors. For smaller wrists, it’s a game-changer.

Yes, there are things that could be improved: a micro-adjust clasp, a more accessible crown, and perhaps an open caseback option down the line. But as it stands, the BR 05 36mm delivers a refined, modern take on a bold classic.

If you're drawn to the original 40mm for its presence, movement display, and broader range of materials, that remains a solid choice—especially for those with larger wrists. But for anyone seeking a more compact, contemporary interpretation that still holds true to the Bell & Ross ethos, the 36mm makes a compelling case.