Watches and Wonders 2021: It would seem that 2021 is the year of the Reverso for Jaeger-LeCoultre...
Watches and Wonders 2021 is finally upon us, and Jaeger-LeCoultre have got some interesting new variations on their most famous model - the Reverso. Initially built in 1931 as a watch able to withstand the rigours of playing polo, the Reverso takes its name from the fact it can be reversed to hide and protect the face.
Whilst I don't think many owners wear it to play polo anymore, the art deco design has since become a timeless classic, and it’s unique rectangular design has since become one of the most recognizable in the world of horology.
Reverso Tribute Small Seconds In Green
First up is the Reverso Tribute Small Seconds in green. It offers a more unusual take on the standard Reverso, with a rich sunburst lacquer dial that’s an incredibly striking and distinctive shade of green. Other than that it’s got all the features you’d expect from a Reverso. Faceted applied indices add depth to the dial, and pair perfectly with the classic dauphine hands.
The watch uses a manual-wind Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822/2, which helps keep the watch just 8.5mm thick- which is ideal for a dress watch and lets the Reverso slip under a cuff with ease.
The striking green leather strap is actually made by Casa Fagliano, a famous maker of polo boots that Jaeger-LeCoultre have been working with since 2011. It’s a fitting partnership given that the Reverso was initially created to be worn playing the sport.
- Reference: Q3978430
- Case dimensions: 45.6 x 27.4mm
- Thickness: 8.5mm
- Movement: Manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822/2
- Functions: Hours/minutes/seconds
- Power reserve: 42 Hours
- Case: Stainless steel
- Water-resistance: 30m
- Dial: Green sunburst
- Strap: Green calf leather
It’s hard to judge a watch without seeing it in the metal, but the new Reverso Tribute Small Seconds in green looks to be a great addition to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s existing Reverso lineup. The timeless design has always looked fantastic, and the green colourway just adds a new twist to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most famous design.
Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185
Whilst the Reverso Tribute Small Seconds in green is a modest addition to the Reverso line. The new Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 is anything but. The result of over 6 years of development, this is the world’s first wristwatch with four functioning display faces. With three displays of lunar information on the interior face of the iconic Reverso cradle (the
synodic cycle, the draconic cycle and the anomalistic cycle), the Hybris Mechanica Quadriptyque can predict the next global incidence of astronomical events such as supermoons and eclipses. In fact, it’s also the world’s first wristwatch to provide such a deep reading of the cosmos. To read the full, and very extensive, list of complications check out the specifications below.
Aesthetically the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 is a work of art. The intricacy and finishing of each face is simply breathtaking, and it’s one hell of a statement to make. Each element has been executed with the usual level of refinement expected of Jaeger-LeCoultre, and it says a lot that this watch still looks understated, despite the number of features, and the white gold case.
- Reference: Q7103420
- Case dimensions: 51.2 x 31mm
- Thickness: 15.15mm
- Movement: Manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 185
- Face 1: Hour – Minute, Tourbillon (indicating the Second), Instantaneous Perpetual Calendar, Grande Date, Day, Month, Leap Year, Night & Day
- Face 2: Jumping Digital Hour, Minute, Minute Repeater (with system avoiding dead time)
- Face 3: Northern Hemisphere Moon Phase, Draconic Lunar Cycle (height of the moon), Anomalistic Lunar Cycle (apogee and perigee), Month, Year
- Face 4: Southern Hemisphere Moon Phase
- Power reserve: 50 Hours
- Case: White gold
- Water-resistance: 30m
- Strap: Blue alligator
- Availability: Limited Edition of 10 pieces.
The Reverso Hybris Mechanica is clearly Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ultimate expression of their watchmaking prowess. I must admit, I’m usually not into watches that are crammed with complications for the sake of it, but this Reverso is something else. The amount of detail is incredible, and this watch shows just why Jaeger-LeCoutre are held in such high regard.
Four Rare Handcrafts™ (Métiers Rares®) Reverso One Models
Lastly, Jaeger-LeCoultre have further flexed their artistic muscle by using their artisans at their Métiers Rares® (Rare Handcrafts™) workshop to produce four new Reverso One models.
Inspired by 1920s jewelry design, the four new models celebrate the language of flowers. That is to say, each flower symbolises certain attributes and meanings that can be used to convey a message from one person to another. Limited to just 10 pieces each, the four models are: White Lilies, Pink Arums, Purple Arums, and Blue Arums.
Each model features a hand-engraved and enameled relief of the relevant flower, and the gold cases are set with diamonds and mother of pearl. The end result are watches that are tributes to the arts of both jewellers and watchmakers alike.
- Reference: Q3293420 (White Lilies), Q3292430 (Pink Arums), Q3292401 (Purple Arums), Q3293401 (Blue Arums)
- Case dimensions: 40 x 20mm
- Movement: Manual-wind Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 846
- Functions: Hours and minutes
- Power reserve: 38 Hours
- Case: White or pink gold
- Strap: Alligator
- Availability: Each limited to 10 pieces
As a man, I’m obviously not the target audience for these Reverso One models. However, I can still appreciate the beauty of the designs, and the enamel work looks great. I do think that the amount of diamonds set into the case will be off-putting for those who aren’t into bling and perhaps want something more understated, but then again, Jaeger-LeCoultre are clearly deliberately blending watchmaking and jewellery with these new models.
Whilst they’ve focused on just the Reverso so far this year, Jaeger-LeCoultre have offered up three very different collections based on the one model- showing just how innovative and diverse a brand they can be. Overall, I think that each new release offers something fresh to the brand’s collection, whilst still retaining the classic Jaeger-LeCoultre style we all know and love.
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